If you live in a colder part of the country visited by Ole Man Winter, you'll need to winterize the water system to prevent damage to water lines and faucets. There are two basic approaches to this need: the use of compressed air or RV anti-freeze. Complete details on both methods are contained in the Lazy Daze manual. This FAQ summarizes them.
Winterizing with Compressed Air
You'll need an "oil free" air compressor with a 2-4 gallon tank capacity. The tank will ensure enough pressure to purge the lines of air. An "oil type" compressor could allow oil to contaminate the water system. To make the job even easier, you can purchase a specially-made Blow-Out hose from Lazy Daze. This hose has an air fitting on one end to connect to the compressor; the other end has a water fitting that will connect the hose to the water system. You could also make such a hose yourself. What follows is a short-version of the Lazy Daze manual; refer to it for complete instructions on each of the steps below.
- Make sure pump is off and that you're NOT connected to city water.
- Drain the fresh water tank. Leave the valve slightly open to prevent damage to the valve from any water that may drip into it and freeze.
- Completely drain the hot water heater (HWH), flush it and replace the drain plug.
- Remove the faucet aeration screens, the hand held sprayer, the hose/spray head and the outside shower head (if you have one). This will prevent sediment blown through the lines from clogging the faucets and sprayers.
- Empty and clean the water pump debris strainer bowl.
- Disconnect the pump's out-going water line.
- Put a rag under the pump and turn it on for a few seconds to purge the incoming line and pump head assembly.
- Attach the Blow-Out hose to the disconnected water line; be sure it is firmly tightened.
- Set your air compressor to about 50 psi and start it. Never exceed 75 psi!
- Starting with the cold water faucet nearest the pump, slowly open it and wait until only air is coming out. Close it and do the same for the hot water faucet. Continue on to the next nearest faucet and repeat the process. Work your way through all the faucets, including the outside shower, if you have one. Likewise for the ice-maker. Repeat the process until you are convinced you are getting only air.
- Shut off the compressor, release the air pressure and remove the Blow-Out hose.
- Reattach the water line to the pump.
- Replace the faucet aeration screens, the hand held sprayer, the hose/spray head and the outside shower head (if you have one).
- Leave all faucets open.
- Remove the HWH drain plug to allow any remaining water to drain. Replace the plug.
- Put a damp rag around the compressor hose and insert it into each sink and shower drain to blow water out of the traps. To be extra cautious, you can also add some anit-freeze into the traps.
- Depress and hold in the center portion of the city water inlet valve to drain any water from that part of the line.
- When de-winterizing in the spring, remove the faucet aeration screens, the hand held sprayer, the hose/spray head and the outside shower head (if you have one). This will prevent sediment with the initial flow of water from clogging the faucets and sprayers. Once things appear to be running clear, replace them.
Winterizing with Anti-Freeze
- Purchase enough RV-type anti-freeze to fill the water lines and the HWH. You can install a HWH bypass that will let you add the anti-freeze to the lines without filling the HWH - this will save you about 6 gallons of ani-freeze.
- Make sure pump is off and that you're NOT connected to city water.
- Drain the fresh water tank. Leave the valve slightly open to prevent damage to the valve from any water that may drip into it and freeze
- Completely drain the HWH, flush it and replace the drain plug.
- Empty and clean the water pump debris strainer bowl.
- Disconnect the incoming water line from the pump. This is the line with the debris strainer.
- Connect a piece of hose to the inlet side of the pump. You can buy a fitting that allows you connect a hose directly to the pump inlet.
- Put the other end of the hose directly into the anti-freeze bottle.
- Turn on the water pump.
- Go to the cold water faucet nearest the pump. Open it until the anti-freeze replaces water coming from the faucet. Do the same for the matching hot water faucet (UNLESS you have installed a bypass kit).
- Repeat for each set of faucets working away from the pump. Don't forget the outside shower and/or ice-maker, if so equipped.
- Turn off the water pump and relieve the pressure by opening a cold water faucet.
- Depress and hold in the center portion of the city water inlet valve to drain any water from that part of the line.
- Reattach the incoming water line to the pump.
- In the spring, you'll have to purge the system of the anti-freeze and sanitize it.
Odds and Ends
- Camping World and others sell a so-called blow-out adapter that attaches to the city water inlet. However, you will not fully purge the system using this approach. Water will be forced back into the water pump where it can freeze and damage the pump.
- Several people report that they have successfully used the output port of a vacuum cleaner or Shopvac in place of an air compressor. Gus says: "With the vacuum on blowing mode, I hold the vacuum hose into the fresh water fill, Nancy turns on each faucet starting with the one closes to the fresh water tank when it blows only air she closes that one and moves to the next. We drain the hot water first (and last) making sure there is no water in the hot water tank as it is the most expensive to replace. We do this routine at lease twice, and it only takes us about thirty minutes. If there is any water left in the line and it freezes, the water lines are plastic and will expand a little. This system has been working for us for eighteen years."
Contributors: Gus, Lazy Daze, WxToad, Ed Daniels
Updated: 4 Feb 2014
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Showing posts with label Winterize. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Winterize. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Winter Storage
After winterizing your water system to prevent damage from frozen pipes or faucets, there are other steps you should also take to prepare your rig for winter storage. Essentially there are two sets of procedures: for the coach and for the chassis.
Coach
Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.
If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.
Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off.
Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground.
If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.
Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.
Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.
Service all locks with a lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40. Some locksmiths say to NEVER use graphite powder in your locks. It ends up sticking together and forming a hard substance like the "lead" in pencils, which is actually graphite. This is made worse in humid areas where it happens quicker. They all recommend using WD-40 or a similar product because it both cleans and lubricates them.
Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the LP gas supply valve off.
Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.
Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud dabbers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.
Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.
Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV.
Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.
Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.
Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.
Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.
Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.
Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.
The use of Maxx Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.
Chassis
Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free.
Charge all batteries to a full charge. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery.
Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.
If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.
If you put the unit in long-term storage remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.
During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.
If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE
Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
If the unit is not in long-term storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the generator at ½ rated power. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.
Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.
Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every 2 to 3 years.
Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.
Perform a full chassis lubrication prior to storage.
This completes the steps that are required to protect your investment when it's time to park it for the winter.
Contributors: Unknown
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Coach
Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.
If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.
Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off.
Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground.
If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.
Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.
Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.
Service all locks with a lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40. Some locksmiths say to NEVER use graphite powder in your locks. It ends up sticking together and forming a hard substance like the "lead" in pencils, which is actually graphite. This is made worse in humid areas where it happens quicker. They all recommend using WD-40 or a similar product because it both cleans and lubricates them.
Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the LP gas supply valve off.
Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.
Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud dabbers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.
Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.
Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV.
Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.
Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.
Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.
Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.
Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.
Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.
The use of Maxx Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.
Chassis
Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free.
Charge all batteries to a full charge. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery.
Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.
If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.
If you put the unit in long-term storage remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.
During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.
If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE
Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
If the unit is not in long-term storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the generator at ½ rated power. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.
Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.
Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every 2 to 3 years.
Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.
Perform a full chassis lubrication prior to storage.
This completes the steps that are required to protect your investment when it's time to park it for the winter.
Contributors: Unknown
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