One of the big attractions of a Lazy Daze coach is the number and size of windows. In addition, they have always been deeply tinted so that although occupants can see out, folks outside can't see inside in daylight. Prior to 2003 models, the windows were of a double-pane construction with a tinted film between them, but there was no insulating air space between the panes. Beginning in 2003, LD started using a true insulated window, with improved insulating qualities. These windows greatly reduce wintertime condensation.
The windows are manufactured by Hehr:
* Sold only to manufacturers as whole window assemblies.
* They no longer replace glass at their plant. Instead, replacement material is provided to a few retail shops (e.g., Nagcoglass in Pomona, CA)
Nagco Glass of Pomona
243 E. Holt Ave
Pomona, CA 91767
Phone: (909) 623-3343
* It is laminated and is 3/16-inch thick. (most laminated material is 1/4-inch thick.)
* It is darker than most 3/16 "lammie" available.
* Dark grey glass is normally 1/4-inch thick. Jamming 1/4-inch, "light" grey glass into the Lazy Daze window frames will break it.
* Get your local glass installer to deal directly with Nagcoglass. Have your installer get the glass shipped UPS ($90 vs $250, and it's less likely to be broken.* Let the installers measure the glass (and order it at least 2-inches larger in each dimension than will be needed).
* According to one installer, RV and 18-wheeler tractor glass is very difficult to source.
Cleaning Stained Windows- "Invisible Glass" by Stoner. Be forwarned... you cannot expect a perfect job from the first application. You must cut through all the accumulated crud to get down to the glass. At least 3 applications, minimum. But, once you get all the other stuff removed you will be surprise at the result. Make sure you follow the directions. You can find it at Wal-Mart.
- Bar Keepers Friend- Be real careful with scrubby things - it's easy to scratch the glass.
- H.D. Acid, Aluminum and chrome brightener. It's a liquid sold in a gallon container for @ $15.00. Wash you windows with this stuff and they look like new! You can find it at:
- Kimball Midwest sells a glass cleaner called Extreme Glass Cleaner. It works well on the minerals found in our well water.
- You can also use CLR, being careful of surround materials. Just a bit on a paper towel to control application. Follow up with regular glass cleaner.
Keeping bugs out of the weep holes- Make some little filter screens by using an old pair of scissors and cutting strips from a Scotchbrite pad (or similar). This will keep the little buggers out, but you'll have to remember to clean the filters now and then to prevent the weep holes from backing up. Use a dental pick to remove the "filters" after use (ask your dentist, they will usually give used ones to you for the asking - those that they have ground down beyond what they can use.
The screens have "spring" clips designed to compress against the top window track and push the screen's lower edge down into the lower track.
To remove a screen, grip the screen at the lower corners and press straight up against the clips until the lower edge clears the track lip. Then pull the bottom edge of the screen toward you just a bit and it will come out easily.
To re-install, insert the clips into the upper window track, press upward, swing the screen's bottom edge back in over the lower track and release.
Resealing/Replacing a window
See the Resealing/Replacing a Window FAQ
Dual-pane Window is Foggy
- Occasionally the seal between the two layers of glass will fail, allowing moisture to infiltrate the air-space and cause fogging of the window. Repair of this malady is not a DIY project - here's an article that describes the process.
- From Steve Newton regarding windows: Either they are easy to slide but can rattle or do not rattle but are difficult to open and close. The solution is simple. We basically use a 1" x 2" x 6" block of wood and tap the flat aluminum flange around the exterior portion of the sliding window side. You place the small end of the block against the aluminum frame and tap it with a hammer as you move it around the frame. This moves the frame closer to the felt which in turn eliminates any free play. Apparently, the felt has collapsed just enough to create the rattle. It does not take much to bend the frame. If you get carried away, the window will become difficult to open. We test drive each unit and tap down any windows that may have the rattle, however, again the felt may collapse just enough down the road to allow the rattle to return.
- Pedaleasy1949 suggests: I fixed the problem by going to Home Depot and purchasing a thumb screw window lock [for about $2.00] that slides into the bottom window channel. The lock was too large and parts had to be filed off with a dremel tool. However, after modification, the lock fits snugly into the channel and with the sliding window closed, holds the left bottom corner of the sliding window [viewed from the inside of the rig] firmly in place and has eliminated the rattle. When you get to your destination, simply unscrew the lock, put in a drawer, and open your window. I believe this is a far more sensible fix than trying to bend the aluminum channel to narrow its dimensions, as such bending may make it more difficult to slide the window.
- Place a small strip of the fuzzy part of Velcro material just on the inside of the outside rail that holds the window. Put a piece on the top and bottom close to the center of the window frame. The pieces were about 1/4" x 2". You have to be careful that it is placed just below the area where the window's outside fuzzy part is so that the new material just will touch the metal part of the window frame. Additional velco can be added to the vertical portion of the aft frame.
The window is hard to open/close
The LD manual says to clean out the tracks and then lubricate with WD 40 or petroleum jelly. Most folks agree that makes things rather messy - it "goos" up and attracts dirt. Thoroughly cleaning the tracks and liberal application of silicone spray has worked some for us. I would definitely avoid the products you say the manual recommends - they will accelerate the chemical deterioration of those guides. Spray everything lightly and then wipe with a clean rag to pick up any dirt. Repeat until the rag comes up clean. Get the can of spray that comes with a small plastic nozzle that looks like a straw - not as messy as a can without a "straw". Another way to apply the silicon is to spray it on a rag then wipe the track with the rag.
- Our aluminum window latches have never tended to release unintentionally - plastic ones might have more of a problem. Close the window FIRMLY before engaging the latch. The constant pressure of the window on the latch helps. I find I have to push the widow firmly closed again then to release the latch. Steve
- Depending upon the window's location, the latch may appear to be upside down - you'd think the latches should be installed so that one pushes them down to lock, not up. You may be able to switch latches from one side of the rig to the other to reverse the latch.
- Visit a hardware store, Lowe's or HD and look for a screw clamp that finger tightens on the lip of the window channel. They often sold as part of security system, but should be available separately. It's just a simple "U" shaped piece of aluminum with a tapped in screw that tightens to the lip--easy to put on and remove.
- The latches on 2003 and newer LD's require the single lever latch which rotates 180°. For those of you who need exact replacements the correct part number is Hehr Pt. #110-241.
The supplier is Interstate Metals, Phone 1-800-587-3463. A call to that 800 number informed me that the Hehr Pt. #110-241 would cost $6.50 each, with the option of black or red. The only difference is the inclusion of a heavier spring. They are interchangeable right to left side, the screw holes have the same c/c distance and outside of a stiffer operation they are the same as the old ones. It takes all of five minutes to mount the new one in place of the broken one. Steve S.
Water collects in window track
- Check that the outside "seal" is all the way down against the pane. After pushing this down (let the water evaporate first), you can test by spraying with a hose.
- The first thing to check is the weep hole under the small pane area; these narrow slots on the outside of the window frame can become blocked with crud. A narrow popsicle stick or wooden coffee "stirrer" (the kind one gets at a coffee place) work well to ream out the weep holes.
- We had a similar problem with our 2005MB and several trips back to the factory did not help as it would not leak unless it was raining very hard. What did help was recaulking around the top of the window that was leaking and putting guttering up over the back window.
- Use Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure (google it). I used this product on just such a problem and it worked. Buy it at marine stores or Camping World. A small amount goes a long ways, has a long shelf life and is extremely easy to use.
- The rubber stripping in one corner of the rear window in my 23.5 was leaking; water entered from the poorly-fitting stripping, then "bubbled" and oozed over the seal on the inside of the window. Per suggestions, I first looked at using Dynaflex caulk, but didn't want to buy a tube which required a caulk gun for a few little "doots" of sealant. I found a product which seems to have done the job: GE Silicone II Gasket and Seal. The sealant is black, comes in a 2.8 ounce tube (with a cap to prevent hardening of the product in the nozzle), is listed for auto and "recreational vehicle" use, is easy to apply, cleans up with a shop towel, dries pretty quickly, and cures in about a day. No more window leaks.
- Using 3M Window-Weld Urethane:-- Clean the area with water and then alcohol. Use blue tape to mask off the window frame leaving only a sliver showing all the way around. Do the same with the pane. This way the sealer adheres to the frame, rubber seal, and window pane neatly.
-- After applying the sealer work it with your finger using latex gloves. Finishing off by doing a final swipe to remove excess. This made for a clean and almost factory look.
--This stuff dries super fast.
-- I realized after the fact that I need a little more sealer in a couple of spots. I'll have to pay more attention next time. In the meantime I'll just re-mask and re-apply.
- The general consensus is to NEVER use silicone caulking on your LD. It doesn't stick well and yet is miserable to remove.
- Go to your local friendly picture framer (one who uses metal frames on watercolors) and ask to see some, "Spring Clips". These are 1/4 inch wide and about two to three inches long pieces of metal in a shallow curved "W" shape about 5/16" or so high. They are used to hold watercolors, mats, glass and backing in metal frames.
Contributors: Steve Newton, Pedaleasy1949, Steve, John, Jerry, bob phillips, Larry Wade, Dennis, Brian, Joan Taylor, Steve S., Pat, bumper, Dale Collins, Peg, Malcolm, Gini Free, Danny, Tom Johnston, Cats Meow, Andy Baird, George of Arby
Revised 13 Nov 2012