Showing posts with label Buy New Lazy Daze. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Buy New Lazy Daze. Show all posts

Monday, January 30, 2012

The (Long) Road to a Lazy Daze – Part 1

By Joan Taylor

(All opinions, viewpoints, and experiences expressed in the articles are personal, and don’t necessarily reflect those of other Lazy Daze owners or of RVers Online.)

The first installment of a planned 3-part “serial” is a candid report on part of the process – of about ten years! – that I went through to research and select a 2003 23.5’ Lazy Daze, a factory-direct class C produced to order in Montclair, California. Part 2 will discuss making the final choices – a visit to the factory, deciding on the floor plan and options, placing the order, the long wait -- and taking delivery of the LD! Part 3 will be a “down-the-road” report after a few miles are on the rig!

The factory called; the new motorhome will soon be ready for delivery after an almost 8-month “gestation”! The new gates to the LD’s home in the side yard are in, the insurance and road service contract are in place, my survival kit boxes have been shipped to the factory, driving lessons from Dick Reed’s RV School arranged, the flight ticketed, and my many lists made in preparation for taking delivery of the “Babydaze”. I can’t wait to get back on the road….

The Beginning of the Road…

Like many other RVers, I tent-camped for years, and as I got older and it became a little harder to get up off the ground in the mornings, I “graduated” to a tent camper in the 80s. Tent campers offer many advantages – they have a lot of space for the money, the lighter ones can be pulled by smaller vehicles, and they’re affordable for many families. But they’re more suited to a “set up and stay a while” camping/travel style rather than a “move on every day or two” type, and, at some point, they do have to be backed up! One of my “maneuvering” efforts caused several folks at a lakeside campground in Vernon, B.C., to go into cackling hysterics; I’m sure they were taking bets on how many “passes” it would take to put the thing into the water. After serving as the source of campground entertainment quite a few more times, I acknowledged my incorrigible backing up limitations and sold the tent trailer.

Something one piece came next – a 92 Dolphin on a Toyota chassis with a V-6 engine. The chassis/engine choice was influenced by the fact that I’d driven Toyotas since 1970, and I knew that they were tough and reliable trucks. I had determined that my preferred traveling and camping style required a small, no “bells and whistles” RV; it had to be easy to drive, be able to be maneuver up and down many kinds of roads without a lot of hassle and be “parkable” in about the same space as a large truck; getting decent gas mileage was a definite plus! I was still a newbie, with only elementary awareness and comprehension of “RV stuff”; weight limitations, coach build quality, plumbing and electrical and propane intricacies were all grey areas.

Even at that pretty clueless point in my RV education, I was aware that the 6000-pound GVWR of the Toyota chassis would be a real limitation with the bodies and supply requirements of even one (often two) adult(s), and I compensated accordingly as I learned more; air bags and Bilsteins to improve handling, 8-ply commercial tires, careful attention to limiting and balancing the loads, nothing on top, behind, or following, and a strict regimen of engine/chassis service. I even traded getting an awning for traveling with the dog; they weighed the same!

Well, there are advantages to learning by experience; if you survive them, the “hard-way” lessons do stick with you! Experience certainly helps to define and confirm a personal travel and camping style, but I knew that there was more to the RV learning curve than a series of by-the-seat-of-the-pants discoveries. I also knew that the front seat of the Toyota was getting a lot less comfortable on many-hour driving days – it takes a long time to get anywhere else from California! The gas mileage was great, but the tight quarters, the “middling” interior and exterior coachwork, and the efforts to keep the weight safely under control were always concerns. I knew that the little Dolphin wouldn’t last forever, despite diligent maintenance, and that I was definitely not through going down “blue” roads! Down the line, there would be another RV.

I admit to being an inveterate researcher; if I want to know, learn or buy something, I go after the information with the persistence of a wolverine, especially if it means having to part with any money. (Family history is one of my pastimes, and genealogists are zealous diggers!) I read manuals and books and magazines about RVs and RVing, talked to – and eagerly picked the brains of -- RVers and mechanics, tire guys, propane guys, service techs, weight experts, and a lot of folks with whom I just “swapped ignorance”! Examining all kinds of RVs at RV shows and on dealers’ lots added new perspectives to my “how-to-pick-‘em” education, as did reading the very few RV-related “bulletin” boards in existence in the mid-90s.

Several manufacturers’ products, from truck campers to class B rigs to (small) class A’s – nothing “two-piece”, of course! -- were considered, evaluated and dismissed; poor design and engineering, low-quality materials, shoddy, careless construction techniques, and overweight “boxes” were the rule, not the exception. Looking inside and on top of and underneath many RVs of all types made the lack of quality control very clear, and the numerous “warts” on just about everything I saw made me think of the old Peggy Lee song, “Is That All There Is?”. I listened to the spiels of salespeople who ranged from know-nothings to shameless hucksters, ignored same, and kept looking for the right-for-me-long-term RV.

My short list narrowed to a Born Free, a Lazy Daze, and a Sportsmobile class B. I “stepped” each RV choice through my check list of “basics” that I was unwilling to compromise:

  • Very high quality coachwork – The RV would have solid, proven (if not always “first one on the block”) design, engineering, materials, and construction, and there would be stringent quality control checkpoints at each stage of the manufacturing process.
  • A manufacturer with a well-earned reputation for quality and customer service and who sold its product factory-direct – I had no desire to put money into and RV of the dismal quality that I’d been seeing or to take potluck on dealers to mark up the cost and forget the customer’s existence as soon as the RV left the lot. And, I wanted to avoid having to deal with RV salespeople!
  • A choice of workable, intelligently-designed floor plans and interior/exterior design – The options had to maximize the use of the available space and allow for comfortable “living” space (moving around, sleeping, and storage) for one or two people – and the dog! --in even a small rig. The wheelbase length had to be proportionate to the overall length of the rig; the rear overhang had to be a “short” one. (I had seen too many “tail-draggers” that hit bottom on even the shallowest entryway, and swayed and fishtailed down the road!) The “center of gravity” had to be low, and the placement of the appliances, the interior and exterior storage areas, and the fresh water, grey, and black tanks had to be carefully placed “on” the chassis and in the interior to allow for balanced loading.
  • Small size – the RV had to be 24’ at the most for going “toadless”; it had to be easy to drive, able to get into the not-accessible-to-the-big-ones campsites, and able to maneuver on narrow, winding mountain roads, through congested cities and into those cemeteries out in the middle of the cornfields!
  • Sufficient “NCC” – I didn’t want to have to worry about overloading or pick and choose among essential travel equipment and supplies – trading the dog for an awning again wasn’t an option! So, the new rig needed enough payload capacity to ensure safe handling and a comfortable, convenient travel style.
  • As reliable an engine and chassis components as possible, and with enough engine power to avoid being a road hazard!
  • Factory-installed options.

I took the Sportsmobile off my list; despite several advantages – almost infinite customizing options, very high quality coachwork, ease of driving/parking, and great factory support – as it was just too small for my needs. It lacked any outside storage area and the interior, even with clever planning, would be very cramped for extended travel with two adults and dog, especially in rainy or cold weather.

Born Free offered no floor plan choice (that appealed to me) in its 24’ model, its interior felt “closed in”, its exterior was fiberglass (I preferred the polyurethane-painted aluminum exterior of the LD), and its price was considerably more than the Lazy Daze. Born Free did offer the 24’ on the E-450 chassis, and Lazy Daze did not, and I felt strongly that the 11,500# GVWR E-350 was too little chassis for the weight of the 23.5’ LD coach, and left little real payload. By now, I knew that I wanted the Lazy Daze when – and if! – the Newtons went to the heavier chassis for their smallest coach. I packed the shower in the Toyota with “dog stuff”, took off on another cross-country jaunt again….and waited.

Lazy Daze doesn’t make changes quickly; the ownership isn’t known for rushing to re-design their products to incorporate the newest RV chassis, exterior or interior “bells and whistles”! This “deliberate” approach to making design and/or construction changes often brings about criticisms of LD’s using “outdated”, i.e., wood-framed, construction techniques, materials, or components, or “being stuck in the 60s” with their choices of exterior color/design and interior colors/“décor” -- not a “swoop and swirl” paint job or a slide-out in sight! Some potential buyers feel that their questions and/or requests provoke a “take it or leave it” attitude, and that the Lazy Daze ownership can be opinionated and inflexible, and doesn’t want their business enough to accommodate their particular design-change needs. Some people who otherwise might be interested are unwilling to wait 7-8 months for delivery, some have confused “factory-direct” with “custom-built”, and some are unhappy that the factory does not negotiate its prices.

While some of the criticisms may be valid to one extent or another – I have a couple of suggestions to offer to LD, too! -- it’s hard to dispute Lazy Daze’s consistent commitment to producing a very high-quality product and offering its customers excellent value and ongoing support. It’s true that there are “ground rules” to buying a Lazy Daze; the web site --- www.lazydaze.com – is the first source of information for a potential buyer. The models, floor plans, options, prices and other information are pictured/listed on the web site. A call or email to the factory will give answers to specific questions. The online forum for Lazy Daze owners and “wannabes” – a “must read” resource for anyone considering purchase of a Lazy Daze -- is found at http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lifewithalazydazerv/ (More on the group in a later installment!)

Lazy Daze put the 23.5’ on the E-450 chassis for the 2003 model year – one wait was over and another about to begin! The Lazy Daze met all the criteria for what I wanted in a class C; I put aside my lingering reservations –omigodthatsalotofmoneyareyounutstotakeoffalonewithjustthedogyoure62yearsoldwillyouuseitenough

canyoudoitallscrewityesican!, and flew down to the factory and ordered it! I took one last trip in the little Dolphin; she deserved a rest after 85000 miles and almost 12 years through 44 states, and went to a new home with occasional weekend campers.

I think I’m ready – we’ll see!

The (Long) Road to a Lazy Daze – Part 2

By Joan Taylor

Models and Floor Plans and Options, Oh My!

The “squeezeability” of my 22’ mini “C” – into campsites and parking spots and through city streets and down some “cowpath” country roads – was a much-appreciated feature; I wanted to keep as much of the small C’s maneuverability as possible while increasing the interior space and cargo-carrying capacity. While there would be some compromise in “across her beam” width – the LD is 99” -- the 23.5’ offered adequate living area, and, on the E450 chassis, now was out of the “weight-challenged” category – the roughly-2500-pound CCC (with one or two passengers) meant no more doing the “trade the awning for the dog” routine! Now I just had to decide on the floor plan and options – and schedule a trip to the LD factory to place the order!

It’s important to note here that Lazy Daze offers a “factory direct” product, not a “custom” motorhome; past their list of factory-installed options, LD is not a “have it your way” manufacturer. They offer specific floor plans/configurations for each model, and the customer can choose to add extra-cost options from LD’s list, e.g., solar panels(s), back-up camera, satellite antenna, Bilstein shocks, an outside shower, and several other add-ons. (As Lazy Daze states on its web site, many of the features that may be offered as options on other manufacturers’ products are “included in the price” standard equipment on most of the LD models.) There is a choice of exterior/interior color schemes. LD is usually agreeable to making small changes, e.g., omitting the interior wall clock, putting in an under-sink “T” fitting to accommodate an aftermarket customer-installed water filtration system, etc., at a customer’s request, but they don’t make design/structural/equipment changes, and they don’t negotiate prices.

As mentioned in Part 1, prospective owners (and those who already own an LD, new or older) of LDs have two primary sources of (online) information – the Lazy Daze company website,  and the (Yahoo groups) message board,  The company’s site provides all the basic product information – a little “press”, descriptions/layouts of models, floor plans, options, prices, specifications, and contact information. The message board fills in any informational “holes”; with its many knowledgeable and experienced posters and friendly, civil and helpful atmosphere, it’s a must-visit-and-ask-questions resource for Lazy Daze owners or “wannabes”. (There are currently over 1300 board members, but of course, there are far fewer “regular” posters.) I visited the board frequently – and still do! -- during the planning/selection/ordering process and the subsequent long wait, eagerly and shamelessly picking the brains of several of the “LD experts” on everything from floor “mats” to GPS! Their advice and suggestions were very valuable, and helped me to make the best choices for my RV “style”.

I knew that I had to see the real thing to decide on the floor plan; sometimes photos DO lie – or at least, they skew reality -- and getting the right layout demands some “pretend living in it” time! The choice was between the Rear Lounge and the Twin-King models; the “must have” large rear windows eliminated the bathroom-across-the-back Front Lounge model. It was time to head for the factory…..

A Visit to the “Mothership”

The Lazy Daze factory is in Montclair, California; this is indistinguishable from Pomona, California, the factory’s address before the city boundaries changed. The factory itself is unprepossessing, but a lot bigger than it looks; all parts of the coach construction on the 14050 # Ford E-450 cutaway chassis are done here by skilled crews of longtime employees. The office area is comfortably funky, and the people are open and friendly; they’re proud of their product and their operation, but not at all pretentious about it! Todd (two of Todd’s “hats” are part-orderer and client picker-upper) picked me up at the airport, and I spent the rest of the morning sitting on couches, chairs and toilets, climbing into cabover beds, opening drawers and cupboards and storage bays, crawling under coaches – and that’s a lot harder than it used to be! -- and making a list of questions for my afternoon ordering session with Ed.

The first design elimination was the Rear Lounge model – one brief “sit” in the narrow, short-seated, derrière-constrictor chair told me to go for the Rear Lounge with the two couches. (What’s comfortable for one is not for another; I’m sure that the chairs fit a lot of people, but my dimensions and conformation aren’t compatible with them! Sitting in the shallow seats – the edge hit me at mid-thigh -- felt like “perching”!)

Even though I’d now almost certainly decided on the 23.5’ TK, I did look hard at the 26.5’ Mid-bath; the most popular model in LD’s lineup makes up about 75% - 80% of its sales, and for good reason -- the plan is efficient, workable and flexible, the size is versatile – big enough for two or a small family but small enough to go a lot of places -- and there’s adequate NCC. If I had been able to fit the 26.5’ beside my house, I might have weakened, but despite the attractiveness and functionality of the layout, I didn’t need 3 more feet, so I quit horsing around and went into the office to find Ed and order the 23.5’ TK.

Ed Newton has been building motorhomes for a lot of years, and his extensive experience and knowledge have undeniably led to firmly-held opinions on what’s best for a client! The family is proud of their since-1956 production history, and they have no doubts that they make the best for very competitive price and offer great after-sale service. Confidence and pride can be mistaken for arrogance, and Ed’s sometimes brusque, no-nonsense manner may be off-putting for some, but my ordering experience was very positive. I had done my homework, I knew what I wanted, and I knew – and appreciated -- what I was getting! Ed – and his son, Steve – have no interest in “bulking up the package”; they genuinely want what’s in the client’s best interests, and will try to dissuade a client from buying a model or an option they feel is inappropriate or unnecessary for that person’s stated travel/RV lifestyle. When Ed says, “You don’t need it”, he’s most often right. I had selected the model that best fit what I do/where I go with an RV and had reviewed all the options, deciding on three: one 85 watt solar panel (sufficient for keeping the batteries charged in storage and for a few days of boondocking), a CB (an inexpensive way to communicate on the road if I traveled with others and for the occasional trucker-supplied “road alert”), and the Bilstein shocks. Ed feels that these heavy-duty “serious Teutonic dampers” aren’t needed on the 23.5’. Despite his admonitions that the Bilsteins would make the ride on the 158” chassis too harsh, I ordered them. After a bit more “to-ing and fro-ing”, I paid the deposit on a “teal” (a lot more “green” than “teal” – LD does have some interesting notions about colors and combinations thereof!) 23.5’ TK and flew home for the 7 ½ month “gestation” period!

[Note Ed is no longer active with the company. His nephew Steve runs now]

Getting “the Call”

Vicki called from the factory in late October; “Your 23.5’ TK will be ready for pick up on November 12th!”. Since I’d ordered in late April, and sold my little class C in June, I had been going through “no escape pod” withdrawals for too many good weather months! I had even gone back to tent camping in the interim so as not to waste the warm days of spring, summer and early fall. There’s something to be said for the appeal of the “simplicity” of my type of minimalist tent camping out of the trunk of a Toyota Corolla, but unfortunately, part of the “simplicity” involves having to get up off the on-the-tent-floor foam mattress every morning. Since I always associate the “natural experience” of tent camping with a certain amount of pain, I was looking forward to a bed that was higher than my ankles.

I had driven down to the factory – it’s about a 6 ½-7 hour trip from the Bay Area if one drives too fast -- in mid-September to do some measurements and to take care of a couple of details that I had been too addled or too unaware – bless that LD message board! – to accomplish on my ordering visit. On this factory visit, I met a couple of owners who clued me into the option of asking that the interior curtain on the front inside of the cabover be left off; the curtain covers a blank wall behind the “faux” windows in the cabover!? LD’s rationale for this odd curtain placement is that there would be “too much white space” without it. I assured them that I would be delighted with white space instead of something that had no purpose other than gathering dust – they agreed to leave off the curtain, and I went home happy.

The pick-up trip was scheduled for four days – fly down, go through the orientation, pick up the rig, take driving instruction from Dick Reed’s “RV School”, and then head up to Ridgecrest and the “Tireman” to have easy-to-air brass valves installed in the wheels. I packed two boxes with RV “survival essentials” and shipped these to Lazy Daze, made reservations at the East Shore RV Park, and appointments with the RV School and Chuck the Tireman, checked the weather report – as it turned out, the report that I saw was made by the guys who never look out the window -- and flew down to the factory.

My delivery was scheduled for 12:30; my teal green-on-white coach was waiting in the parking lot with the door open and my previously-shipped boxes and Kevin, the orientation/check-out man, inside. Kevin went thoroughly and patiently through the workings of all the coach systems and the “how-to” operations. I had read -- and marked with questions -- the comprehensive manual that LD gives the customer when the RV is ordered, and the delivery process went smoothly. Lazy Daze’s smallest model loomed a lot larger than she had appeared in the “showroom” with the bigger guys, but she was pretty, and real at last after a long wait! But, LD’s checkout takes about 2 ½ - 3 hours, and it got colder and darker (and with that peculiar yellow-grey sky that means hail) as the afternoon went on. The rain started to fall – what’s the old song about “it never rains in southern California”? – and lightning cracked and streaked overhead. I took care of the paperwork, thanked and “goodbyed” all the great LD folks, got a quick ride to Trader Joe’s for some food supplies with a friend who works nearby, and lumbered off for the gas station, hoping to get to the RV park before the heaviest traffic on I-10, or at least before dark.

Sometimes the RV gods smile and sometimes they laugh hysterically – I got a miserly gas pump which delivered its wares one tablespoon at a time, and since I had already shoved 3 twenties into the machine, I was not about to leave. A plea to the guy in the mini-mart fell on uncomprehending ears – we had no languages in common. A half hour later, it was pitch dark, and a hail-and-thunderstorm was going full tilt. The half-gassed LD and I found our way to I-10 past a couple of accidents on surface streets – with the resulting debris spread and “I won’t let you into my lane” jam-ups -- then crawled along with the commute traffic, hoping not to miss the exit in the sheeting rain. (Although I had driven my previous RV in high winds, heavy rain, snow, and hail, this was the largest vehicle I had ever driven, it was NEW, and my night vision is less than optimum; I was determined not to whack my shiny new toy into anything!) The power was out in several places along the way – unlighted freeway signs – so the only clear views came with the lightning flashes! (The little “objects are larger than they appear” mirrors stuck to the outside corners of the Ford’s Velvac side mirrors leave a lot to be desired in the dark and the rain!) I located the RV park – yes, U-turns can be done on city streets in a 23.5’ – pulled into my assigned spot, and hunkered down without hooking up to wait for the storm to blow over. I was going on faith that the sun would come out the next day for my driving lessons!

Driving School and Tire Valves

The sun arrived along with one of the RV School’s driving instructors, John Ward, a retired trucker and truck driving instructor with 45 years and 2 million miles’ worth of on-the-road experience. He complimented my choice of coach, commenting on how well put-together the Lazy Daze models were, and we did a short tour of her “insides and outsides”.

Dick Reed’s RV School offers driving instruction packages in the client’s RV – any type – or in a school-provided rig. (The web site, www.rvschool.com, gives all the particulars of locations, costs, packages and contact/appointment information.) The school’s instructors are knowledgeable, patient, skilled, and more than a little brave to willingly sit in the passenger’s seat while a novice hauls around a very large vehicle – or two in the case of a 5th wheel or TT – in southern California traffic!

I’ve been driving cars and trucks since I could reach the pedals and peer over a dashboard at the same time, and had also driven my other little “C” for a lot of miles, but that long driving experience also suggests that those years might be starting to work on the quickness of one’s reactions and less-acute vision. I’m a long way from being doddering and half-blind, but this RV is bigger than my old one, and my depth perception has always been limited; I wanted all the “edge” that the instruction/practice could provide! For two days – eight hours of behind-the-wheel instruction, four hours each day – I wheeled and backed and cut and swung and propelled the coach through city streets, up and down little hills, in and out of parking lots, and along the freeways. The Lazy Daze handles very well; the Bilsteins do give a firmer ride, but the driving feel is smooth and tight, there’s no wallow when cornering, and no “sideways jump” in windy conditions. John is a very good instructor; he’s patient, he varies the instruction, he pinpoints to client’s needs and teaches to these, and he allows plenty of time for practice. (He’s also a fount of southern California lore, and since the cab of the LD is quiet and allows for “no-hollering” conversation, I learned a lot of history along with how not to back into tree stumps and campground power stands!) At the end of the instruction, John pronounced that I had “done real good” and would have “no trouble driving her RV.” With John’s great instruction and confidence-building encouragement – and the baptism of fire of the maiden voyage – I figured that I could drive my now-a-bit-smaller-feeling coach wherever it would fit!

A 2 ½ hour drive up to the high desert town of Ridgecrest for a set of “Chuck the Tireman’s” brass valves with air-though caps was next on the pick-up agenda. Ford delivers its E-450 chassis with rubber valve stems on the 8-holed steel wheels, including the rear duals. With the addition of the KII wheel covers that Lazy Daze installs, reaching the valve on the inner dual with an air hose (not easy on the outside dual, either) is impossible unless one has hands the size of a Barbie doll. Few folks are so manually equipped, so something has to be done aftermarket to take the job of reaching the valves and airing the tires out of the difficulty category of searching for the Holy Grail.

There are three choices: Alcoa wheels, valve extenders, or “configured” replacement valves. The Alcoas are a very pricey solution, but the wheel holes are more than hand-size. Installing valve extenders still requires that the rubber valves be replaced with steel or brass -- the extenders will leak when installed on rubber valves – and they often leak anyway if the connection between valve and extender is stressed or ”tweaked” in any way. I opted for the “configured” valves; the valve for the inner dual is long enough to extend through the hole of the wheel cover, and the valve for the outer dual is “bent” to face outward. (Chuck Carvitto sells the valve kit by mail if a customer chooses to have the valves installed locally, and also installs the valves by appointment; details are available on his website: Chuck provides a 30-amp hookup for his customers’ overnight stays; he does the front valves Friday evening and the rears Saturday morning before regular business hours.) Chuck has been in the business a long time and knows “tire stuff”; he’s very keen on making sure that his customers are satisfied; my “easy-air” valves are terrific!

Going Home

The LD was getting smaller every day; my driving comfort, skills, and confidence level had increased dramatically during my four-day pick-up trip! She’s an easy-driving coach, holds the road well, and the smooth V-10 provides plenty of power. The trip back to the Bay Area, although through bad weather, was uneventful. I pulled into my beside-the-house spot, content with my decision to make the “Babydaze” my last rig, and with my next two trips already mentally “calendared” and planned! The first look at her out the window of the garage door the next day was a bit like a childhood Christmas morning!

The Long Road to a Lazy Daze – Part 3

By Joan Taylor

Note: Comments and opinions expressed in this 3-part series refer primarily to the 2003 Lazy Daze 23.5’ TK model; my personal experiences with this particular chassis, design/floor plan, model year, and set of options may not apply to other Lazy Daze models and production years, and reflect only my views and experiences.

14 Months and 16000 Miles Down the Long Road….

Is it true that time goes faster when one is older? I believe it; it’s hard to think that the 23.5’ TK and I (and Rosie the dog!) have racked up over 16000 miles since taking delivery in November of 2003! We’ve been winter camping in the CA deserts, and spring traveling through Arizona, Utah, and Idaho. We stuck in a couple of bluegrass festivals and a little home state (California) camping in spring. During June, we spent a few weeks in British Columbia and Alberta making repeat visits to a few Canadian Rockies National Parks, including Jasper, then down to Kelowna, BC, for the RV conference at Okanagan University College. July travels included the Life on Wheels conference in Idaho and some “driveway camping” family visits – no, you may not borrow my motorhome to take the kids camping! In late August and September there was more “go, see, do” in Colorado; the main event was the gathering of the Lazy Daze “LaDeze” group for the fall “uppity women hoot and holler”! This “do” was near Ouray, Colorado. (I missed the first one of these last March as the rig was “in the shop” for warranty work.) September and October are usually the best weather months along the west coast, and are great times for fog and wind-less beach camping; Rosie and I had some beautiful outings in Big Sur, Santa Cruz, and along the central coast. January brought “front-line” RV parking at the Rose Parade and a rainy and cold trip to Palm Springs and central Arizona. We’re getting ready to take off again to see some great wildflower shows produced by our heavy winter rains!

16000 miles in widely varying weather, road conditions, and trip lengths have provided pretty good tests for the design and build quality of the Lazy Daze and the Ford E450 V-10, and the after-sale support and service by Lazy Daze and Ford; here’s the report card:

The Ford E450 V-10

Note: The most significant change to the 2004 Ford chassis/engine was the 5-speed “TorqShift” transmission; according to Ford, this transmission should provide more power and better mileage. See, pages 3-7, for 2005 E-series chassis/engine changes.

Before the Ford, my automotive ownership experiences were limited to “foreign” cars: a 1958 and a 1967 VW, one 1970-something Honda wagon, a couple of Datsun (now called Nissan) trucks, and several Toyotas, including a Dolphin micro-mini on a Toyota chassis. I had some idea of what to expect from the newer Ford E-450/V-10 as far as reliability, power, mileage, and longevity were concerned, but I still was pretty skeptical and wary; much of what I’d always heard when the ranch trucks had mechanical problems was, “Well, whaddaya expect? It’s a Ford!

Somewhere in the back of my mind, I keep waiting for the other automotive shoe to drop, but the V-10 has been very reliable so far; it starts on the “first kick”, runs pretty smoothly and quietly, doesn’t overheat (it’s had plenty of chances with some of the roads and ambient temperatures that I’ve driven on and in), and has sufficient power to keep me out of trouble – but always in the truck lane, especially on steep grades. I could go a little faster up the hills, but since the thing already has a hearty appetite for 87 octane, I let the transmission seek out its preferred hill-climbing gear(s) and get to the top behind the pack without sucking up more gas than necessary. (I usually catch up to said pack when they have to stop for the road construction flagger!)

The GVWR of the E450 is 14050 pounds, and all Lazy Daze models are built on this same basic chassis; the “wet weights” of each model length vary by roughly 1000 pounds (See: Mothership for specifications and features of current chassis.) My “down the road” weight is about 11800 pounds, and I’m traveling considerably lighter at the outset than a 26.5’ or a 30’. The lesser weight—and no “toad” -- helps to improve mileage, but 9.5 mpg was the maximum for the first few thousand miles; now, the truck is “averaging” just over 10 mpg. (The best mileage that I’ve gotten has been just under 11 mpg). I broke in the engine carefully for the first 5000 or so miles – varying the speeds, keeping it under 55 mph on the highway, and changing the oil and filter at more frequent intervals than the manual recommends. I learned early on that (using the correct oil weight and) changing the oil and filter is the cheapest “insurance” one can get for engine longevity; the truck gets new oil and filter every 3000 miles – the recommended Motorcraft 5W 20 synthetic blend and Motorcraft filter.

A tachometer didn’t come standard on the E-450 until the 2004 chassis, and although it would be a nice addition and give a little more information on how fast everything is “spinning”, it’s not too difficult to hear/feel the engine’s “sweet spot”; my rig seems to like to cruise at about 58-60 mph. That’s plenty fast for me, and my credit card gets some respite from being shoved repeatedly into the slot at the gas pump!

NB -- There were two recent recalls on many 2003 chassis (VINs of affected chassis are listed); the original air filter is not fire-resistant and should be replaced (04S23) and the ABS brake module can short and cause a fire (04S22). My vehicle now has a “recall compliant” air filter and a heat shield over its ABS module.

The 23.5’ “Box”

The selling points of all the Lazy Daze models are practical, livable designs, high-quality materials, solid construction, and careful workmanship. The overall build quality of my coach – with the exceptions noted in later paragraphs – is as expected; the construction is solid, and the coach has no significant squeaks or rattles when going down the road. Some vibration/clatter from the entry door is sometimes audible on rougher roads and/or at highway speeds; it’s very difficult to get an equal, constant “seal” on all sides of a tall, relatively narrow entry door. Lazy Daze even includes a disclaimer in the manual -- “It has not been possible for Lazy Daze to find a coach door that does not allow a certain amount of wind noise when traveling at freeway speeds.” – so the occasional rattle isn’t unexpected.

Nothing leaks. One of the “end caps” – fiberglass corner joint coverings on the coach rear – has separated slightly from the coach body in a couple of places; this “separation” has remained a (largely cosmetic if the gaps are repaired quickly) a problem through several model years and incarnations of end-wrap design. Scraping, cleaning, and re-sealing the (small) gaps, including those above and below the bands is on the to-do list, and will probably become a regular maintenance chore as the coach accrues miles and age.

NB: I had LD put “bands” on to cover the expansion joints between the upper and lower corner wraps. This narrow fiberglass band is screwed into the body at each end; this band was first used on the 2004s, and makes a neater-looking joint.

Any coach (and chassis) are obviously subject to plenty of stress any time the RV is going down the road; the continuous bouncing, flexing, and twisting of the coach structure even under “normal” travel and road surface conditions sometimes makes one wonder how the thing holds together at all! (Many manufacturers’ products don’t, of course!) Lazy Daze’s built-a-step-at-a-time wood-framed coaches are often labeled as outdated; detractors cite the availability/desirability of more “modern” framing materials, i.e., aluminum, and speedier construction and fastening methods. In my experience with the Lazy Daze product, any downsides that there might be to wood-framed coaches are compensated for by the framing design and construction, the sturdy (and abundant) screws securing the framing, and attention to build detail along the production line. A quality-controlled “old-fashioned” wood-framed coach trumps a short-screwed, skimpily-framed aluminum skeleton any day!

The coach interior, including the cabinetry, flooring, “structures”, i.e., couches, table, etc., are well-constructed; the materials and “fit and finish” are very good overall, and the surfaces and upholstery have been durable and easily maintained.

NB –I understand that interior color schemes and combinations are largely matters of preference; “décor” that’s pleasing (or inoffensive or insignificant) to one person is jarring and “omigodigottacoverthatupfast!” to another. But, personal taste and “art school” definitions of tone and hue and shade aside, LD might consider having their interior upholstery, valence, and carpeting color combinations reviewed for “best matches” by a person with a strong sense of color coordination.

As good a product as they produce, and as carefully as they produce it, even Lazy Daze acknowledges that they’re “not perfect”; sometimes the problem is an LD construction “glitch”, and sometimes it’s a faulty component from a supplier. I live about 400 miles (in northern California) from the factory; getting an appointment and making the trip down to Montclair for any repair or warranty work can be a hassle, but at least I’m close enough to the factory to not have to rely on playing “service roulette” with a local RV shop. And, I know that the “LD fix-it guys” will do everything they can to do a job right! The following are the build quality-related “warts” on my LD, and what, if anything, has been done to resolve the problems; with one exception, all were/are minor.

One of the rear storage compartment doors didn’t fit or close correctly; it was replaced under warranty at the factory.

The toilet leaked at the base; the toilet was re-set on a new gasket and the bolts tightened at the factory.

The battery slide tray was installed slightly askew in the compartment; one “bar clamp” that locks the slide tray into place is tweaked just enough to need a few hammer taps to lift it so the tray can slide out.

The charge controller and sensor for the solar panel was faulty; this caused the batteries to consistently overcharge. I kept the batteries well-watered until the factory could replace the controller and sensor under warranty, and the batteries don’t appear to have been damaged.

A drawer rubbed on the furnace duct hose; the drawer is too deep to clear the hose, and if the drawer is repeatedly opened all the way, the rear of the drawer slide will quickly wear a hole in the duct. I discovered this before any damage was done; the solution was a combination of “mashing” down the duct and not opening the drawer past halfway.

There is a “low spot” about a foot square on the left front corner of the roof; this collects water from rain (or any source.). The only “fix” for this is to remember to close the driver’s side cab window upon starting up and moving the coach to avoid a deluge coming into the cab!

The gasket on the vent in the bath was not secured properly; the gasket stuck to the vent lid and pulled up when the lid was opened, and rain leaked in. Since the vent is over the shower, this didn’t matter too much, but Vince (at the factory) glued the gasket with some concoction and it hasn’t moved since!

The catch on the bathroom door is quirky and needs frequent adjustment to “catch”.

NB – The “Features and Specifications” sheet for the 2003 models lists the capacity of the black tank in the 23.5’ TK as 24 gallons; it’s actually 18 gallons. Until I found out the real capacity of the black tank, that 6 gallon “expectation” did contribute to some confusion as to why the “sanitary dump” was a too-frequent destination! Subsequent model years’ specs list tank capacities accurately, as far as I know.

A “Weighty” Concern

Most of the above-detailed glitches fall into the “mildly annoying, but fixable” category, but the weight discrepancy between the left and right rear corners rates quite a bit higher on the “wart scale”. According to the factory, the right “side”, i.e., rear, of the 23.5’ TK weighs 200 pounds more than the left; the refrigerator, water heater, generator, and batteries on this particular design are located on the right side of the coach. The rationale is (apparently) that if the fresh water tank, located on the left side, is kept at least half full, this will balance the weight. When my coach was weighed (at a truck scale prior to adding suspension components at Henderson’s Line-Up in Grants Pass, OR, with all tanks at less than 1/3 capacity), the weight discrepancy between the right and left rear corners was approximately 500 pounds, and, on the level shop floor, the coach was approximately 1” lower on the right rear!

The obvious reasons for any weight discrepancy and rear sag, i.e., unbalanced weight of the contents of the left and right rear storage compartments and chassis or suspension flaws (missing leaf springs) were checked; there was nothing in the right storage compartment that would account for the weight difference, and the techs found no chassis or suspension problems that would contribute to the weight imbalance and rear “dip”. Henderson’s installed a spacer, a short steel “mini-leaf” at the bottom of the leaf spring “stack”, and secured the package with longer U-bolts.

The addition of the spacer corrected the rear sag, but obviously did not address the root cause of the sag. I discussed this issue with the factory; the suggestion was that the coach had not been weighed correctly. I explained that the coach had been weighed twice, each time with the duals squarely in the middle of the weighing pad (and the tanks at as close to the same levels), and that there had been only 20 pounds difference between the first and second weighings. Other possible causes were suggested, i.e., compartment content and chassis issues that had already been checked and eliminated; nothing further was suggested. I plan to take the coach to be weighed (again) with tanks, outside compartments, and inside cupboards completely empty; the coach should be as close to its original “wet weight” – gas and whatever propane is in the tank – as possible. This weighing should determine the actual empty side-to-side weights and show any right side weight discrepancy above the 200 pound difference acknowledged by the factory.

Obviously, it’s unrealistic to expect a coach to be perfectly weight-balanced side to side and front to rear; some minor weight imbalances are inherent in any design. The loads carried by each owner (and how these loads are distributed) also vary, and can affect weight distribution. However, an apparent weight discrepancy of more than twice the manufacturer’s specifications and a 1” sag on one rear corner (and the expense to correct the problem) is not an expectation in a coach of Lazy Daze’s quality; I was very surprised to find this in my coach, as were the techs at Henderson’s – this was not consistent with their (or my!) experience with LDs.

The (apparently) excessive weight of the right rear may be a problem that affects only my particular model, i.e., the 23.5’ TK; I have corresponded with one other owner of this model who reported that he had noticed the same weight imbalance. I haven’t heard reports of any weight-related problems with any other models; most owners praise the design, balance, and overall handling of their coaches as they come “stock” – with perhaps only the addition of Bilsteins (or Koni or other aftermarket shocks). As mentioned, the spacer corrected the sag (but obviously not the apparent weight discrepancy; this is still under review!) and three aftermarket add-ons (installed after driving the coach for 3-4 thousand miles) improved the overall handling and stability of the “BabyDaze”.

Factory-installed Options…

Some Lazy Daze buyers pick up their coaches after the several-month gestation period, leave the mothership’s driveway, and never look back; the original chassis and coach components and their chosen-from-the-short-list factory-installed options suit them just fine, and they’re not particularly interested in add-ons or (further) modifications to the “stock” coach or chassis. Some owners, though, enter into the ordering process at the factory with their “tweak lists” already in gear – “Steve/Ed, can you install/remove/delete/modify/relocate/substitute ……?” The have-it-my-way owners’ lists grow or shrink (“Well, I guess that can be added later…”) according to the factory’s number of “We can do that” or “NO!” answers!

My travel and camping styles are pretty simple and straightforward; I neither needed nor wanted most of the available factory-installed options, e.g., an electric step, hardwood dashboard trim, outside shower, etc., or many “Steve/Ed, can you…” changes. I did request that the factory leave off the clock, the magazine rack, and the real interior curtain covering the faux windows in the cabover; LD is of the opinion that “leaving off the curtain will show too much white space” on the front wall of the cabover. My answer was that white space was fine with me; I could see no sensible reason to put a dust-catching, hard-to-reach-to-clean curtain over blank wall space! I chose factory-installed options of one solar panel, Bilstein shocks, and a CB.

These modest choices have worked for me, but if I were making the selections again, I’d omit the CB and add a second solar panel and the back-up camera! (Not exactly an even trade-off cost-wise, but useful!) I haven’t yet used the CB, and although the second solar panel isn’t really critical, it would be a nice-to-have boondocking time stretcher. However, since I travel solo most of the time, there have been plenty of occasions to regret not having the back-up camera factory-installed! Vince repaired the results of my really dumb “back into a big sprinkler pipe in the rainy dark and take a plug out of the rear end” mishap; I learned the hard (and expensive!) way to live with the endless opportunities to comply with my driving instructor’s admonitions to “GOAL” -- Get Out And Look!

…and Aftermarket Add-ons

Last June, I was headed up I-5 for British Columbia anyway, so I made an appointment at Henderson’s Line-up in Grants Pass, OR, to have a front-end and “6-wheel” alignment done. Lazy Daze coaches have a reputation as having “good road manners”, and although the little coach didn’t drive badly, I felt that there was room for improvement in its overall handling. There was some “play” in the steering, the coach “swayed’ when passed by an 18-wheeler, and Ford’s notorious “bump steer” was very apparent. After a weighing and a test ride with some “fancy” maneuvers, I decided to add the installation of a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer and front and rear sway bars from IPD; combined with the Bilsteins (already factory-installed on the coach) and a careful alignment, the steering stabilizer and sway bars have made positive differences in the coach’s handling. The ride is stable and controlled, the steering is much more “precise” – if one can use that term for a “truck”! – the coach tracks in a straight line, and windy conditions and passing big rigs don’t “sway” her!

Perhaps LD doesn’t feel that any handling “enhancements”, including heavy-duty shocks, are necessary for good ride quality, especially for the 23.5’, but the OEM replacement add-ons have improved the coach’s handling and stability significantly, and have made driving much less tiring.

It’s back up I-5 to Canada – and Henderson’s; Rosie the dog jumps out of the coach and goes straight to the waiting room door! -- in June (again), so I’ll get another alignment and any needed “loosen the bolt and get the big hammer” adjustments on the Safe-T-Plus!

… and Customizing My “Covered Wagon”

Unlike some LD owners, I fall toward the lower end of the “tinker and tweak” scale; my coach is stock except for aftermarket suspension components, “extended” tire valves, and Velvac “wide-angle” side mirrors. The factory-installed Velvacs have a small stick-on “things in the mirror are larger than they appear” convex corner mirror for wide-angle viewing; they’re just OK in the daylight, but do not provide clear views at night or in the rain. I haven’t beefed up the bumper to tow, or added any audio components (that I can’t carry outside to listen to!), or installed additional batteries, a second solar panel, or an LCD TV. (I can’t think where one would go in the 23.5’ anyway; the little fold-down shelf in the back works fine for my “primitive” 9” TV!) I don’t have a GPS; so far, I’ve managed to plan routes and navigate all over the US and Canada with AAA maps and a Michelin atlas, and where I end up is (almost) always where I figured I would! I’m no Luddite; I do plan to get ad-free satellite radio, as the tiny-button, incomprehensible-function AM/FM radio is one of the most dreadful designs I’ve encountered, and radio ads are as frequent, lengthy, intrusive, and dumb as those on TV. I did get a dash-mounted compass/altimeter/barometer/temperature sensor, but haven’t installed it yet; there are about 30 pages of instructions on calibration/setting the declination/bearing points and a great deal of other “Whaaat?!? complexities! Shouldn’t the thing be able to figure out its elevation and where “north” is on its own? Now I know why it was on sale!

I did make a “doghouse apron” to have “stuff” accessible in the cab. The apron is necessary because the “console” in the LD consists of a miniscule shelf with two cup holes and the space on the floor between the driver’s and passenger’s seats – where dog-less RVers might put a compartmented organizer -- is taken up with the dog bed! I sewed throws for the couches and an insulated divider “curtain” to separate the living area from the cab. The hard rubber steps of the overcab bed ladder have been covered with dense foam, the drawers and cabinet doors have new hardware (with beefy washers), and the medicine cabinet (heavy, and with one puny shelf and a lot of wasted space) has been replaced with wire shelves in the bath area. More “gracious living” projects will get done down the road, including having (the decals removed and) California poppies airbrushed on the spare tire cover!

The Balance Sheet

The Lazy Daze has met my (high!) expectations with one exception: the apparently excessive weight differential between the left and right rear corners. I’ll know the exact difference when I can find a scale capable of separately weighing each corner. The right corner “sag” of a little over an inch – not readily apparent unless seen from the rear on a level surface – was expensive to correct and a “fix” should not have been necessary.

The coach has so far proven to be solid, durable, and “tight”. (Some minor repair needs to be done to the rear corner wraps; I know that LD is working on a better design to resolve this “gapping” problem.) The V-10 does like to be fed, but it chugs right along and provides plenty of power if one doesn’t care about getting to the top of the hill first. The shock/suspension “tweaks” and the coach’s relatively low center of gravity have contributed to producing a smooth-driving, easy-to-handle motorhome.

With the exception of the charge controller (replaced under warranty), the systems and appliances have performed as they were designed to do.

The Lazy Daze’s simple, classic exterior design and tri-color paint pattern is distinctive, but low-key. My green and white coach has elicited quite a few comments of, “Hey, nice-looking rig!” The “two-couches-and-large-windows-in-the-rear” floor plan has been comfortable and efficient, and since the wide rear window of my previous class C had spoiled me with many glorious “back up to the view” sights, I wanted to keep this feature.

NB – Lazy Daze’s double-paned windows are tinted; the grey-tone tint darkens the interior, but helps to keep the interior cooler in hot weather. The “can’t see in” tinted windows also contribute to interior privacy during daylight. The tint does distort outside colors; when looking out of the windows, outside colors appear darker and greyer than they really are. Getting a “true color view” requires a trip outside!

The 23.5’ offers plenty of cargo-carrying capacity; at my LD’s heaviest down-the-road weight of about 12,000 pounds, there’s still a ton (literally!) of capacity left on the 14050 pound capacity chassis. I’m sure that I could haul more “stuff” weight-wise, but finding a place to stow it is a problem; storage compartment space, especially for taller and/or bulky items, is limited on the 23.5’. The interiors of the main storage compartments measure about 12” high, and access to the areas away from the compartment door can be difficult. However, Lazy Daze has built the storage compartments as efficiently as the design of the 23.5’ TK allows; the compartment size and access is determined by the coach’s rear-couch layout and the maximum practical size of the storage compartment doors. Adjusting the cargo placement for best access is a matter of re-arranging things (and dumping all but the essentials!) until a convenient (or at least workable) solution is found; I’ve done this several times!

NB – The cargo capacities and storage compartment configurations (and wet weights) of each model vary; check Mothership for current specifications.

The rig has adequate interior storage; there are cupboards and drawers (see “I Wish …” below) and “spaces” wherever LD could fit a door or drawer front. Closet space is ample for one person and workable for two, but two people’s hanging clothing leaves little space for a small laundry hamper or bag. A small shelf at the top of the closet provides storage for shoes (and/or whatever). The rears of the floor-level storage compartments can be difficult to reach; I use a foam kneeler and a flashlight when I have to go on a voyage of discovery to the back of one of these cupboards. (Given a bit of time and darkness, a “lost” potato can do some real interesting things!)

The “BabyDaze” is a practical and versatile rig for my “go anywhere, stay a few days, then get on the road again” travel style. It’s short enough to maneuver easily, get down all but “goat track” roads, and fit into most campsites. Its 99” width (the same as all LDs) has only been a bit dicey on a couple of very narrow, curvy mountain roads. The 23.5’ can park where a 26.5’ might not fit, and its smaller size makes towing a runaround vehicle a less “necessary” option. (Yes, there are times and places when and where having a small car along would definitely be convenient, but the downside is having the extra expense, limitations, and hassle of towing. Enterprise Rent-a-Car has a lot of locations!)

The Lazy Daze manual, provided to the customer when the order is placed, is very good; my worn copy is highlighted and sticky-tagged and dog-eared from use! This owner’s guide is clearly organized and written, and is very comprehensive; between the manual and the Lazy Daze message board, no LDer should have too many unanswered questions about the coach or its systems!

As I said in Part 1 of this series, one compelling reason for my choice of a Lazy Daze was that it was a “factory-direct” purchase; no dealers! From my research, I knew that Lazy Daze had a reputation for conscientious after-sales customer service and support. My experience has shown that this reputation is well-deserved; all warranty and/or repair issues that I’ve had with my coach have been handled as competently and professionally as I would expect. Despite a very heavy volume of work – often to repair the fall-out from owner-caused “misjudgments”! – the overworked fix-it guys at LD do a great job. Although there is often a wait for service and repair appointments, the factory tries to be aware of customers’ needs and schedules, and to deal with warranty and/or repair work as expeditiously as they can.

There have been some appliance and equipment improvements to the coach (see the web site reference under the section heading, “Ford E-450 V-10” for changes to the chassis) in the 2004 and 2005 model years , e.g., a quieter, electronic water pump, LCD TVs in the larger models, 100W solar panels, an “upgraded” charge controller, etc. Lazy Daze doesn’t make design or equipment change decisions quickly or arbitrarily; they subject any and all changes to the coach to a process of careful scrutiny before implementing them. They do listen to owners’ comments and suggestions, and incorporate ideas, design and equipment changes, and technical product “advances” that are consistent with their business model and production style. LD’s “new idea implementation timetable” might be a little slow-moving for some people, but new coach buyers can be confident that changes have been well-considered, and are not simply reflections of the latest trend.

There’s certainly no general agreement as to what should be included on any “wish list” of changes and/or options – Lazy Daze people are a pretty independent bunch! This is my “short list” -- other items that I feel might be changed, improved, or offered in the first place have been previously discussed, are minor and therefore “customizable”, or have been incorporated into the 2004 and 2005 models. I suspect that Lazy Daze may pigeonhole suggestions for changes into, “we’re already working on that”, “an OK idea, but we don’t have the space/personnel/equipment to do that”, and “when pigs fly!” My wish list items may fit into that last category, but …

I Wish Lazy Daze Would…

…provide a diagram of each model’s black tank “throat” configuration so that owners can select the most efficient equipment and methods for tank flushing to accommodate the “bends and angles” of their particular model.

…offer an option of easy-to-keep-clean all-vinyl flooring throughout the living areas of the coach. Carpeting is impractical in an RV; it’s almost impossible to keep clean, any trapped moisture contributes to mold and mildew, and it can be difficult and expensive to replace. I use washable cotton throw rugs to cover the small area of carpeting in the rear (and at the entry) of my 23.5’; without the “protective cover”, all the grubby grunge that I’ve washed out of those rugs so many times would be ground into the carpeting!

…re-design the “3-drawer bank” in the kitchen area; the space (that three drawers take up now) will accommodate four drawers if each drawer is made shallower. The current 3-drawer setup is a space waster; the drawers are too deep for efficient “single layer” silverware and/or utensil storage and too short to store rolls of plastic wrap, foil, zip-locks, and wax paper.

…offer an option to replace the pull-down accordion shades with wide plastic or wood slatted blinds. The wide shades are awkward to raise and lower. When the shades are down, they allow very little air to pass through the windows. It’s also impossible to “peek” through a down shade to see what’s going on outside. Blinds (wood or plastic, not aluminum) would be more versatile and offer about the same insulation value as the shades. And, cleaning blinds is easier than cleaning the shades; the back and front surfaces of each blind are accessible. Just try cleaning the backside of the pull-down shades!

… lose the black-painted “faux window” rectangles on the cabover. The factory apparently feels that leaving the cabover free of black paint would make it look like a bread truck; I believe that a creative re-design (not an enlargement!) and placement of the logo would take care of any overage of white space!

…eliminate the “hinged skirts” that make access to the rear tires more difficult than it needs to be; perhaps a re-design might include a clean-trimmed over-the-tire cut-out in the siding of about half the depth of the current skirt ? To get to the whole tire (if there’s no “hold this” help around when checking tread or washing the vehicle/tires or checking the sidewalls), one has to unscrew the wing nuts, then lift and prop up the skirts with a stick, a shoulder, a camp shovel, or the awning rod. I’m aware that this skirt design hits pretty close to being sacred, and that LD feels that the skirts “improve the aerodynamics” and enhance the overall look. The design and utility (more important to me than the look) of fender skirts remind me of one of my era’s hot cars – a “have to take the fender skirts off to get at the tires” ’54 Mercury.

Down the Road…

No coach or manufacturer is perfect; all coaches have a few “warts” and features that don’t please everybody. But when considering the products’ overall designs and quality, the commendable customer service, and the value for the price, Lazy Daze is way out in front of any class C competition. Lazy Daze is a unique manufacturer, proud of its singular products and dedicated to its business model and ongoing vision of producing and supporting the best class C; they’re doing that job very well.

As the song says, “If I had it to do all over, I’d do it again”; Lazy Daze is the “TA DAAA!” of class C coaches. My original decisions on the model and factory-installed options (with the exceptions and comments noted previously) have worked out as I’d hoped. I do like my casita verde; we’re a good fit! If my travel style ever changes, i.e., being on the road for a few months at a time, or if I eventually wear out my little coach (and I’m still allowed out without supervision!), I might consider another “egg from the same LD nest”, a 26.5’ MB, to continue the journey. But this is now; the winter months’ pages are torn off the rig’s stick-up calendar, the maps and guidebooks are marked, spring is coming, and the dog and I are soon to be down the road again!

The Long Road to a Lazy Daze – Part 4

By Joan Taylor

Note: Comments and opinions expressed in this 4-part series refer primarily to the 2003 Lazy Daze 23.5’ TK model; my personal experiences with this particular chassis, design/floor plan, model year, and set of options may not apply to other Lazy Daze models and production years, and, except as noted, reflect only my views and experiences.

Four Years Later and 43000 miles Down the “Long Road…”

In Part 3 of “The Long Road to a Lazy Daze”, I wrote: “Is it true that time goes faster when one is older?” It was “yes” then, and it’s sure “YES!” now; it’s hard to believe that I’ve stacked four registration stickers on the license plate since picking up my 23.5’ TK in November of 2003 in a thunder, lightning, and blinding rain storm and driving I-10 and surface streets to a “never been there before” overnight spot in the dark!

The previous article in this series was written in early February of 2005; at that time, the LD and the dog and I had traveled about 16000 miles; since that time, we’ve gone “down the road” for another 27000 or so throughout the western U.S. and Canada, including a stop at Lazy Daze’s 50th Anniversary hoopla in Cheyenne, Wyoming in late June, 2006.

The miles traveled (in “widely varying weather, road conditions, and trip lengths”) and the coach, engine, and chassis experiences of the past 2 ½ years since Part 3 was written have continued to provide evidence that my original choice of a Lazy Daze was a good one! Here’s the current report…..

The Ford E450 V-10

As I mentioned in Part 3, this Ford was my first ownership experience with an “American-made” vehicle. I was somewhat skeptical at first of the Ford engine’s reliability, but in over 43000 miles, I’ve had a very good experience with the V-10; so far, it has performed much better and has had far fewer problems than I anticipated.

The engine has received regular servicing; I follow the recommended maintenance schedule and use Ford-recommended products.

I do change the oil and filter every 3000 miles; some might feel that this is overkill, but, as mentioned before, changing the oil and filter at shorter intervals is pretty cheap insurance against premature engine wear! The oil filter on the V-10 is easily accessible, the air filter is easy to remove, clean, and re-assemble, and the all the “fluid fills” are within easy reach, so, if one is so inclined and able, high shop charges for these very routine services can be avoided by doing it yourself!

The gas mileage on the V-10 continues to be as expected from a “big” engine hauling a substantial amount of weight; as near as I can figure from the ScanGauge II® readouts, the mileage averages around 10.5 mpg. So far, the lowest readout was 2.9 mpg (pulling a 10% grade), and the highest, 39.2 mpg – going down (slowly) the same grade! These wildly varying figures provide good entertainment value, of course, but the most useful information comes from keeping track of the readout variations as one travels a variety of roads in all kinds of weather and over different types of terrain. The down-the-road weight of my 23.5’ is under 12,000 pounds, and I routinely travel at speeds (when on straight and level roads) between 55-58 mph. According to the ScanGauge II®, the rpms at these speeds are usually around 2000; it’s interesting to have translated into numbers what my ears told me was the right “cruising” rpm for that engine! (My model year [2003] did not come with a tachometer.)

Obviously, fuel is heart-stoppingly expensive; the experience of watching the fuel gauge drop and the numbers on the gas pump whiz by can make one lightheaded! Fuel will undoubtedly continue to increase in cost, so maintaining the engine in top condition, keeping the rig’s weight down (and, I don’t tow), and driving at very prudent speeds all help to squeeze maximum efficiency out of each gallon. Going back to work to pay for my travels is not an option!

The Ford Chassis and Aftermarket Suspension Add-ons

I’ve had no problems with “popping” spark plugs, brakes, steering, or the transmission, including the TSB dealing with fluid leaking from the vent on the transmission-mounted parking brake assembly; so far, all these systems are functioning as they should. I’ve tightened the frame bolts that connect the coach to the chassis; this is a “routine” maintenance task. (Check the LD message board for extensive discussions of this topic.)

As noted in Part 3, I added a Safe-T-Plus® steering control and heavy IPD® front and rear sway bars after about 5000 miles; my 23.5’ was delivered with Bilstein® shocks, despite Ed’s insistence that these were not needed on the shorter wheelbase chassis. These aftermarket suspension add-ons have definitely improved handling and control, and have given satisfactory performance overall, but I offer three observations on the performances of these specific brand add-ons:

The Safe-T-Plus® does improve handling and control, but it’s a little “touchy” and needs adjustment more frequently than I think it should; this is inconvenient and can be costly. Obviously, the Safe-T-Plus® should be adjusted after a wheel alignment and balance, but it should hold its adjustment and keep the steering “true” between alignments -- unless something major happens to knock it out of whack, of course! An alternative to the Safe-T-Plus® is the Steer Safe® stabilizer; I haven’t investigated this unit, but it may be a replacement option.

The rear IPD® bar drops just below the differential, and the bar can hit a speed bump or strip unless one is driving very slowly and easing over the bump(s). Since the resulting whump sounds like the rear of the rig should be scattered all over the parking lot, I learned very quickly to crawl over any “rise”!

The Bilstein® shocks have been very durable and have contributed to the firm, stable handling that I enjoy with this coach. These shocks might be a bit “stiff” for some who prefer a softer ride, but, so far, they have worked for me. Thanks to a heads-up from an owner on the message board, I became aware of a potential problem with worn Bilstein® bushings; reports from several Lazy Daze owners indicated that they had discovered worn or excessively compressed (or gone!) bushings! My inspection didn’t reveal any problems, but the tech will get his chance to look when I have the 45000-mile service done in a couple of weeks.

The 23.5’ “Box”

Note: I travel solo and I don’t fulltime, so the wear and tear on the coach, especially the interior, is less than with two people, and definitely less than with a family with kids! The dog does count for at least one dirty-footed kid’s worth of mess-making ability, though!

In Part 3, I wrote: “The selling points of all the Lazy Daze models are practical, livable designs, high-quality materials, solid construction, and careful workmanship.” After 43000 miles, the overall build-quality of the Lazy Daze is even more apparent; with a few exceptions noted below, almost all of the elements of the “box” itself have held up well, requiring only routine (but diligent!) maintenance and cleaning.

Coach Exterior

My LD has experienced some minor, primarily cosmetic, rear end cap separations. I have re-sealed the “lifted” areas three times with the appropriate sealer(s), but small gaps consistently reappear, especially when the sun heats and “lifts” the affected areas. The gaps are currently not significant enough to warrant concern about potential leaks (which Steve claims won’t happen even if the end caps fall off!), but even small separations don’t do much for the appearance of the rig! Lazy Daze says that it is now using a different adhesive in an attempt to control this problem, but according to some owners’ reports on the LD message board, it doesn’t appear that the new adhesive (used as a re-seal and/or on new coaches) has been a completely effective solution.

I re-sealed the seam between the edge of the fiberglass nose cap and the aluminum roof sheet with Eternabond®. The use of Eternabond® as a DIY seam repair/sealer doesn’t thrill the factory; the tape is difficult to remove (that’s pretty much the whole idea!) and the factory guys like to re-seal seams without using it. However, the original seam was sealed very sloppily when the coach was built; the poor seal had allowed water and dirt to leak into the seam, and bubbles appeared along the seam line. Thankfully, no leaks into the overhead had developed. I dug out all the old, loose sealant, thoroughly cleaned and dried the seam line, applied sealer, then topped the seam with Eternabond; I expect the repaired seam to maintain its integrity. The roof seams around the sides and rear of the motorhome and around the vents are discolored and “checked”, but they appear to still be sound; the roof should not need re-sealing for a couple years yet.  See also

Note: I might not have found the potentially leaky seal if I hadn’t read posters’ comments on the LD message board describing gaps in the seam line between the front end cap and the roof; my previous roof inspections hadn’t revealed any problems. A very close look at the seam line showed the bubbles in the sealant; water and dirt dribbled out when the bubbles were gently “poked” with a screwdriver. The “messages” are pretty clear here; follow the LD message board to find out other owners’ experiences, and thoroughly and frequently inspect the LD’s roof!

One corner of the rear window leaked; I repaired this by easing the rubber gasket away from the edge of the glass, cleaning and drying the area, then using butyl rubber sealant under the gasket to fill the gap. I ran an additional thin bead of sealant along the outside of the gasket, smoothing it well into the corner; so far, the repair has stopped the leak.

Coach Interior

My rig’s upholstery and carpeting are in great condition, primarily because they’re kept covered! I made throws of heavy twill fabric for the couches and the front seats, and use throw rugs over the carpeted area; the throws and the rugs are washable. LD uses a tightly-woven, sturdy cotton-polyester-olefin upholstery fabric, but the carpeting is of average quality; LD has changed some patterns and color combinations (for better or worse!) in the model years since 2003, but as far as I know, the overall quality of all the “coverings” is pretty much the same. The upholstery and other interior surfaces and materials have been very durable, but I still wish that Lazy Daze would offer an all-vinyl flooring option; carpeting floors in RVs is impractical at the very least! (Maybe if the guy that thinks carpeting in an RV is such a swell idea was the same one who had to clean it….?) If the carpeted areas in my rig, including the cab, weren’t always covered (and vacuumed and spot-cleaned when something sneaks under or around a rug) with frequently-washed throw rugs, the carpet would likely be a matted, grungy mess in no time, just from normal, everyday wear.

Other interior “warts” are very minor; most result from simply using the motorhome for four years! A short list….

The door to the cupboard under the sink needs a couple of coats of (sanding and) polyurethane sealer along the top molding; the cupboard is frequently opened and closed, often with wet hands, and the door’s finish is a little “patchy” along the top.

I finally replaced the cheesy, “thwaaaapy”, tear and fray and annoy the *&$^@!*!! out of me pull-down shade on the door with a double-fabric café curtain that I made from a double layer of fabric; the curtain slides easily on rings on a tension rod (the rod isn’t visible under the valance) and ties back with the same tie that’s used for the overcab bed curtain. This tie-back set-up works on the 23.5’ TK because of the location of the door relative to the overcab, but on another model, one would have to figure out another way to neatly tie back the curtain besides looping it over the valance.

The backing on the front cab and overcab window curtains has cracked or become a little thin in a few places; I think that the curtain fabric that LD uses is pretty much on the same quality level as the carpet. I’ll replace these when I feel up to making curtains with headers and pins!

I Still Wish Lazy Daze Would …

… Change the pull-down window coverings; unlike blinds, curtains, or the Duette®

shades mentioned below, I can’t look out when the shades are down, and air flow from the windows is restricted. Depending on where and how one camps, pulling the shades down for privacy is desirable, and lack of air circulation can make for uncomfortable sleeping, especially when it’s very warm outside. The pull-down shades do provide some insulation; they’re more efficient against heat generated by direct sunlight, but much less so at insulating against cold temperatures. The shades can be awkward to raise and pull down, especially in models with wide rear windows. The back side of the shade is also very difficult to clean; there’s no vacuum attachment made that fits behind the shades! Additionally, although the valances can be removed, the “rhomboid” shape of the windows and the very small amount of clearance at the corners make installing other window covering choices a challenge! I’ve heard very positive comments from an LD owner who has installed the opaque Duette® honeycomb shades in her rig; these shades are available in different degrees of opacity, offer similar insulation to the existing window coverings, are easier to clean, and open from the top down. The “open from the top down” feature alone makes them very functional and practical for the LD window covering! Of course, outfitting three long windows with Duette® shades can also be pretty pricey, but these shades could be offered as an extra-cost option! Since the annoyance factor with my current window coverings is approaching red line, I’m considering the Duette® shades.

… Lose the black-painted “faux windows” on the overcab. The raised black surfaces look phony and are difficult to clean and maintain. The surfaces retain bug innards and whatever else has been deposited on them from any source; they tend to scratch and/or “dull” when rubbed, even with a plastic “scrubbie” designed not to mar surfaces. Obviously, the overcab is subject to a lot of “blasting” from whatever is smacking into it when going down the road, but the black rectangles (on my rig, at least) do not even hold a wax/polish much past leaving the driveway. I’m familiar with LD’s contention that the overcab would look like a “bread truck” without the fake windows, but I don’t necessarily agree; most respectable bread trucks that I’ve seen avoid any undesirable “whiteout” with a creative logo design and placement. A front end logo re-design consistent with LD’s “retro” look should not be that difficult to accomplish.

…Get rid of the hinged skirts over the rear duals! I can’t count the times I’ve cussed this dopey design (a “Lazy Daze exclusive”!) while trying to prop the skirt up with whatever is handy, usually my shoulder or my head, while trying to inspect the tread or clean and/or “303®” the whole tire! (The awkward skirt design is not real popular with tire guys or RV techs or mechanics, either!) I suggested an alternate design in Part 3: “a clean-trimmed over-the-tire cut-out in the siding of about half the depth of the current skirt”, but so far, LD hasn’t taken my suggestion to heart; imagine that!

A Few Changes and Add-ons…

Most of the additions or changes made to my 23.5’, e.g., suspension add-ons, wide-angle Velvac mirrors, etc., were described in Part 3 of this series; except for the items noted in following paragraphs, I’ve made very few changes to the rig since Part 3 was written, primarily because the LD as it is works well for me without adding much more “stuff”! (I do plan to make a couple of replacements/equipment additions in the upcoming months; these are described in the paragraphs following this section.) I wrote in Part 3: “Unlike some LD owners, I fall toward the lower end of the “tinker and tweak” scale.” This statement is still accurate, but I’ve made a few changes and added a few practical and useful-to-me upgrades to the rig in the past several thousand miles…

In addition to the curtain or the door window, I added a wire shelving unit to the wall area between the galley and bath; the shelves serve as a “snack rack” and hold bulky but lightweight packages of stuff that would otherwise take up too much space in the cupboards and that I can’t get when there’s no Trader Joe’s within hundreds of miles!

The folding stove top was removed and stored away; it was of little use as a work surface, and it tended to rattle going down the road no matter how well it was “padded” with pot holders! I bought a mystery-wood “cutting” board (made by Camco) that was designed to fit on the stove-top; after replacing the crumbling rubber mesh backing, re-finishing and mineral-oiling the tops and sides, and screwing rubber “bumpers” to the bottom so the board fits on the grate without sliding, it’s great as an additional work surface. (I use a maple or thin plastic board on top of the stove-top board for food preparation, including cutting anything.)

I put on six new tires at about 35,000 miles; despite very good care, frequent applications of 303, and being covered when parked, tiny surface cracks were beginning to appear on the sidewalls of the outside duals. I don’t take chances with age, condition, or quality of tires, so after researching several tire replacement options, I stayed with the OEM Michelin LTX M&S tires. (Not that I travel in “M” [mud] or “S” [snow] if I have a choice!) I was not able to find Goodyear all-steel tires that were of a sufficiently current manufacturing date (Goodyear had been on strike for some time, so tire stock was limited to whatever the shop had in the back room), I don’t like the Michelin XPS ribs, and I wasn’t able to get the “correct” tires (the tires I wanted, not whatever the guy could get from his distributor) from Kumho or Goodrich. Appropriately-sized (225-75R-16) and weight-rated (Load Range E) tire choices (with efficient tread designs) are limited. The Michelins work well for the smaller and lighter LD, but if I drove a 26.5’ (or a 30’) motorhome, all-steel tires would be my choice.

I resisted buying a Pro-Fill battery watering system for some time; I felt that it was overpriced. However, everybody has a ¡ya basta! point (Spanish for “enough already!”); after one too many times doing the awkward and time-consuming mirror, flashlight, and turkey baster routine to check the batteries’ electrolyte level, I relented and bought a Pro-fill battery “waterer”:

I still think the thing is overpriced, but I can’t deny that it makes checking and filling (but not overfilling) the batteries easy, fast and pretty much idiot-proof!

At last May’s LD Caravan Club outing, Terry Tanner installed LED taillights (I bought the last set of Maxxima® lights; Terry now installs the slightly-brighter-than-Maxxima Peterson® LED lights) and an LED third brake light relay on the spare tire cover of my “Covered Wagon”. The LED taillights (and “Slimline” brake light relay) provide an amazing improvement in brightness and visibility over the wimpy, dull bulbs that LD installs. And, the “light cans” on the LD are integrated into the rear body panel; this panel is painted as one unit, so the color of the light can is the same as the “stripe”, i.e., green, in the case of my rig. Any dark color is not an effective reflective surface for a taillight bulb; after seeing the difference between the stock tai/brake lights and the LED tail/brake lights, I’m surprised that drivers behind me could even see the puny stock lights!

Terry also hooked up a ScanGuageII®. This little sits-on-the-dash box is a “trip computer” that connects into the engine’s computer system; the gauge can be programmed to track and display four sets of “trip data”. The gauge also displays engine error codes; very handy! The driver can choose which specific data to display; newer models area able to show additional engine functions. The gauge in my rig is set to read out mileage, engine RPMs, coolant temperature, and voltage. The ScanGaugeII® website offers all the details about the product, and Article 19 on the “Techsnoz” website offers a clear explanation of how the gauge works and explains the how-to for installing the gauge (a straightforward plug-in) and setting the readout choices.

“Next Up” …

Since my 23.5’ is a 2003, it came with the little whirring, chattering, 4-blade fan in the bath that accomplishes little beyond making a racket. Lazy Daze discontinued the use of these fans in later models and replaced them with larer, quieter, and more efficient fans from Fantastic Fans; I’ll replace the bath area fan with a model from Fantasic from Maxxair.

Satellite radio is still on my wish list; I have to look at current channel offerings on XM and Sirius to see which system better suits my eclectic tastes!

I much prefer to boondock, and don’t often camp where I have access to hookups. With only one 85 watt solar panel, even my very modest power needs can deplete the 12V “juice” supply pretty quickly unless the panel is receiving enough “full” sunlight to keep the battery charge ahead of the amount of use. The batteries can be very slow to charge in “low sunlight” conditions; cloudy, overcast weather, time of year (sun angle), and tree cover can leave one in the dark pretty quickly! Installing another solar panel (and probably an upgraded charge controller), an AM100 from Amsolar, should make a very positive difference.

The Balance Sheet (2003 23.5’ TK)

The strong V-10 is a good match for the smaller Lazy Dazes; the engine provides adequate power and runs smoothly and reasonably quietly. The engine has been reliable; beyond the already-noted TSBs and recall “glitches”, the V-10 in my rig has required no repairs or service other than regularly-scheduled maintenance.

The coach’s low center of gravity contributes to a stable, smooth-driving machine; the aftermarket suspension upgrades obviously provide improvements in handling and control, but I believe that most people would feel that the coach “drives” very well even with the stock suspension components. The adjustable seat is supportive and reasonably comfortable unless I spend too many hours in the saddle; when everything starts to hurt or go numb, it’s time to stop!

(Aside from the minor end cap separations and a small leak in the rear window), my 23.5’ TK has maintained its structural integrity very well; the coach has proven to be solid, strong, and durable. The overall paint quality is excellent; except for the black-painted rectangles on the overcab, the finish has been tough, easy to maintain, and has not faded or oxidized.

Due to the TK’s design, the three outside storage compartments are “height-challenged” and access to the entire compartment is not always convenient, but LD has maximized the compartments’ capacities as practically as possible. When organized efficiently, the compartments are adequately-sized and accessible for carrying my traveling and camping essentials. None of the compartments has leaked.

My TK has a plethora of CCC; of course, this is largely moot since I can’t think of where I’d put any more stuff!

Overall, the interior is well-designed and space has been utilized efficiently; the TK layout is open and accessible, and the large windows contribute to the spacious and “livable” feeling. Closet space is ample for one person and adequate for a couple, but I organized additional shelf/storage space at one side of the closet (for a folding table), on the closet shelf and on the closet floor (for a rectangular canvas laundry hamper, shoes, and my laptop in its padded case. Except for floor-level compartments (and the useless and long-gone medicine cabinet in the bathroom, replaced with wire shelving), the interior compartments and cupboards are generally easily accessible and adequately-sized; I’ve “customized” some of the cupboards to increase storage and make the contents easier to see and reach. Except for the very small bit of discoloration from water on the below-sink cupboard door, all the cabinetry has maintained its integrity, function, and appearance.

Overall, the electrical, plumbing, LP “parts and systems” and the appliances have functioned without problems except for the following “warts” (which probably sound worse than they are!):

The “prevent the stove top from sliding” tab on the underside of Atwood stove top broke off and disappeared. (A fix for this is still in the “thinking” stage.) The Dometic refrigerator in my rig was under the “possible fatigue crack in the boiler tube” recall; it received its sheet-metal band-aid. The plastic gas line on the generator (see #71197 on the LD message board) was replaced. The tabs on the water heater’s circuit board were cracked; see # 53044 on the LD message board for the repair. And, all but one of the little “grabbers” on the plastic LP gauge broke off; the gauge is now secured with a thin strip of clear duct tape.

I have the same feeling and attitude now about buying factory-direct as I did when I ordered the rig almost five years ago; I wouldn’t do it any other way! Not having a dealer in the mix is a big plus! Although some things have changed at the “mothership” in the years since I bought my LD, buying from a long-established manufacturer who takes pride in its high-quality products has provided consistency and a feeling of “connection”.

The rig has been to the factory for a repair (a bumper bash that was my own dumb fault!) once since the Part 3 16000-mile report; as with previous service calls, the repair was done promptly and professionally, and at a very fair price. I live within a (very) long day’s drive of the factory; this reasonably-close access was definitely a consideration when I chose the Lazy Daze, and I have not regretted this choice. In the case of the Lazy Daze factory, the rig can go “home” again!

One great perk of ownership is other “Lazy Daze people”! I’ve met many knowledgeable, experienced, and technically-savvy owners who understand, value, and appreciate the overall high quality of the design, engineering, materials, and construction of the coach. Many enthusiastically share their technical expertise and the “how-to” of their innovative projects; the creativity and skills of many LDers seems limitless!

Even Lazy Daze says, “We’re not perfect”! Well, no; I don’t know of anything that’s wart-free, especially if it has wheels or an operating system! But, two issues on my coach (and these may have been resolved in later model years) are still of concern:

The unloaded weight difference between the right and left sides of my motorhome is significantly more than the factory-acknowledged weight discrepancy. (This problem was detailed in Part 3, and remains unexplained and resolved only to a point. A few other owners of this model have also reported the weight difference.) According to the factory, the 23.5’ TK (at least, the 2003, and the issue may affect other manufacturing years) does have a 200-pound weight differential between the right and left sides; the right is understandably heavier because of the placement of the refrigerator, the generator, and the batteries. However, two separate weighings (with all the compartments unloaded and the water tank virtually empty) of my rig showed a side-to-side difference of close to 500 pounds; the rear of the rig sat 1” lower on the right. A “shim” was bolted into the leaf spring assembly to correct the sag, but the weight differential is obviously still present. To additionally compensate and balance the side-to-side load, I usually travel with a close-to-full tank of water.

My coach is not particularly well-insulated against heat or cold. In cold weather, the interior can be heated to a comfortable temperature, but, as soon as the heat source is turned off, the heat isn’t retained for more than a few minutes, even with vents closed, all shades pulled down, and a heavy insulating drape placed between the cab and the coach living area. The situation is similar in hot weather; the AC cools the “closed-up” interior, but as soon as it’s off, the coach very quickly heats up. Lazy Daze claims that the floors, walls, and ceilings of its coaches contain “2 ½” of insulation”, but, in my experience, the quantity/application and/or the insulation product/material type isn’t as efficient as it could and should be.

Down the Road…

In Part 3, I wrote: No coach or manufacturer is perfect; all coaches have a few “warts” and features that don’t please everybody. But when considering the products’ overall designs and quality, the commendable customer service, and the value for the price, Lazy Daze is way out in front of any class C competition. Lazy Daze is a unique manufacturer, proud of its singular products and dedicated to its business model and ongoing vision of producing and supporting the best class C; they’re doing that job very well.

My sentiments haven’t changed in the years and miles since that statement; I still feel that Lazy Daze is by far the best overall “bargain” in its class! My coach is good for many more “long roads” yet to come, but if I were ever to get another class C, I’d stick with a proven winner!

Friday, February 4, 2011

Buying a New Lazy Daze

Lazy Daze is among a small group of RV manufacturers that have eschewed the more traditional route of having a distribution and dealer network and a MSRP that is meaningless. Instead buyers deal directly with the factory, known by LD'ers as "The Mothership", and are able to purchase a high-quality motorhome at a very good price - no dealer/distribution costs to be included. Prices are set - no dickering.

Lazy Daze does not claim to build "custom" coaches, but they are built to order for each buyer. No coach is built "on spec" (except the floor models). They offer several models with various floor plans and choices of interior and exterior colors and buyers can choose from a list of options to be added to the rig. They will consider a few requests for things not on the option list, such as adding a roof-top satellite radio antenna (you provide the antenna) or extra roof bracing to support a Datastorm antenna.

Which floor plan is best for you? Only you can answer that. Each of the models has its advocates who swear it is far better than the rest. You really have to think through just how you will be using the coach. It is highly recommended that you visit the factory before ordering an LD to scope out the differences. You'll find it a very low-key operation with absolutely no sales pressure whatsoever. You are encouraged to spend as much time as you'd like inside each of the floor models, imagining yourself traveling and living in it. Some folks spend an entire day or more there before making up their minds. Many buyers report that before their visit, they had decided on a certain floor plan, but that after sitting in and thoroughly inspecting each, they came to realize that a different model was a better match for them.

If you live far away from The Mothership and can't make a visit, the next best approach is to visit a regional Get-Together of Lazy Dazers. There are informal groups all across the country who get together several times a year. Interested "wanna-bees" are most welcome to visit and inspect the various rigs in attendance. There will undoubtedly be at least one of every model present.

Once you've decided on your model, fill out your order form, write a deposit check and send it off to Montclair. Be sure to carefully think about the options you want included on your rig; if you want to change or add something later, there will be a fee for the change to the order.

Now you can sit back and dream about your future life in an LD while you await the call from the factory to firm up your delivery date. That call usually comes about a month before the completion date. At the moment, the wait time from order to delivery seems to be about 4-5 months. In the meantime, you should be researching licensing requirements of your state and looking into insurance.

Believe it or not, there are a couple of ways to get your hands on a new Lazy Daze without going through all of the above. The primary method is to purchase one of the floor models. The factory usually will announce sometime in the late spring that they are taking deposits for them. You will have to wait until the next year's floor models start appearing in the fall to pick it up.

There are some serious considerations to taking this route and you must fully understand what is involved with this process so that you aren't disappointed or angry after the fact:

- The price. LD will offer the floor models at a discounted price....from the next model year's price, which is almost always up a few thousand. So they'll offer what they say is, for example, a $4000 discount. Now, the next year's price they have announced is up $2500, so you're only saving $1500 off the current year's price. You are responsible for understanding what you're paying.

- The wait. As noted above above, you'll have to wait until the next year's floor models are built to take delivery. That could well be longer than if you ordered a new one.

- Options: The floor models generally come with only the standard suite of items included in a basic LD, with no options, such as solar panels, extra outlets, satellite dish, etc.

- The condition: There's no guarantee that your floor model will be delivered to you in pristine, like-new condition. Remember that it will have had many folks walking through it and plopping down on the couches. Some folks report that they were perfectly satisfied with their coach's condition, while others say they have had to do some serious cleaning of upholstery and floors.

The third way to get your hands on a brand-new Lazy Daze is to "purchase" the order of another buyer who for some reason is unable or unwilling to complete the purchase. This is a VERY unusual situation, but it has happened. A few years ago someone posted a query on the LWALDRV Yahoo Group asking if there were anyone who wanted out of their contract....and got a favorable reply. Thirty days later he had his new LD.

Contributors: WxToad

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