Showing posts with label Water Filler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Water Filler. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Two PVC Creations

First, a gadget to wash out the tanks. It uses 3/4 inch hose threads on each end. One connects to the hose, the second to the backfill male connection on the dump valve cap. [Lasco 15-1623]  The 90 degree 3/4 valve allows you to turn the water on/off without having to go to the hose bib. Convenient to prevent overflowing the tanks. [The black tank will vent through the roof, if the toilet bowl is closed. The gray tank will fill the shower basin. No need to ask how I know this] The valve is a 1/2" Slip available at big box stores everywhere. The valve is a 3/4" slip available at big box stores everywhere.

P1030695

The second PVC creation is for filling the fresh water tank. This also uses 3/4 hose thread but steps down to 1/2, as a 3/4 pipe will not fit in the tank filler. [Lasco 15-1621] The valve is a 1/2" slip available at big box stores everywhere.

P1030697

I had to order the PVC fittings from Amazon as the local big box stores did not have them in stock

BTW, I clean our hoses once a twice a year by pouring solution of Clorox through the hose. I always store the hoses with the ends connected to prevent any bugs from entering.

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Repair A Leaking City Water Connetion

I damaged my city water connection while winterizing my rig with RV antifreeze last fall; more to that story but I will skip that part. If your rig is like my Midbath rig, the city water connection housing is painted to match your rig. And in typical Lazy Daze fashion, it is also sealed to the body quite well to prevent leaks. I placed a call to the LD factory and spoke with Vince who told me it is very easy to repair the existing valve instead of removing and replacing the old one. Vince told me to go buy a new city water connection valve similar to the existing one and then call him when I had it in front of me so I would see more clearly what I would need to do.


It helps to understand what is in this valve. When you look into the connection from the outside of the rig, you will see a round disc that has two plastic dog ears on the outside edge; it has a small plastic tip in the center of the white disc that sticks out a bit. This plastic tip is one end of plastic plunger which looks like a golf tee; on the other end of the this tip is a wider end which is like the end of a golf tee that you place your ball on. It has a rubber O-ring on a groove just below the wide end of this piece. There is a cone shaped spring which is fitted over the stem of this golf tee like plastic plunger. The spring holds the O-ring flush against the valve housing to keep the valve closed when you are using your water pump. When you connect to city water, the water pressure pushes the white disc with the dog ears inward which opens the valve to allow "city" water to flow. A leak is caused by the O-ring becoming dislodged from its groove.


While this may sound complicated, by having a new city water valve in your hand and taking it apart to get "donor parts" it will all make sense.


Vince told me to just push in firmly but gently on the plastic tip(not the white disc) of the new part. That dislodged the white disc with dog ears from the plastic plunger (the golf tee like piece). The white disc with the dog ears and the cone shaped spring will exit the hose end of the valve. The plastic plunger with the O-ring will fall out from the inside the city water valve. You will notice a small groove on the plastic plunger where the white disc was attached; it is just wide enough to hold that white dog ear disc. Don't break the ears off! You will have the following parts; the white disc with dog ears, the cone shaped spring, and the plastic plunger with a rubber O-ring. You will use those parts to replace the ones in the LD's water connection. You will need an assistant when you put these parts in your LD.
In the Midbath, there is a white plastic piece angled near the floor behind the toilet. Remove that piece and you will see the white water pipe attached to the city water valve. (probably a good idea to have emptied your fresh water tank first!) Simply unthread the brass nut from the city water valve and have someone push firmly on the *tip* of that plunger from the outside. The valve should come apart just like the new one you used for the donor parts. If your valve was leaking, you will probably find the O-ring partially dislodged from the plastic plunger.


Have your assistant insert the new plastic plunger from the inside the rig and hold it centered in the hole in the center of the valve. From the outside insert the cone shaped spring, wide end toward the inside, over the plunger and then use something like a pair of forceps to hold the white dog ear disc (hold it by gripping the disc, not the dog ears!)and push that over the tip of the plunger until it is seated on that groove. From the inside, attach the plumbing system back to the water valve and you should be fixed!
Test for leaks before putting the cover on behind the toilet. Test using city water and water from the water pump.


This is much easier to do than it is to describe. And much easier than removing the old water valve housing and trying to paint a new one to match your rig. Even my wife was impressed this time! Thank you Vince!


Steve K.

Monday, January 31, 2011

Water Fillers

Your Lazy Daze comes with a nice big fresh water tank which lets you spend a number of days off in the boonies enjoying the Great Outdoors. All you have to do is fill it. Here are some tips to make that job a little easier.


- The first trick is to be able to connect to the water source. Not all faucets have a threaded spout onto which you can fasten your hose. Not a problem - all you need is a "water thief". This simple three-dollar rubber gizmo adapts virtually any faucet--round, square, threaded or not--to a garden hose fitting. Every RV should have one tucked away for emergencies. It's basically a somewhat stretchy length of rubber tubing that has a metal male hose thread on one end. You stretch the tubing over the business end of the faucet, then connect your hose to the water thief via the hose threads. Some I've seen have pretty straight-sided tubing, while others are tapered, may have molded-in ridges to grip the faucet, etc. They can slip or work their way off of the faucet if the water pressure is high, the water hose flexes or pulls on the water thief, etc. Carry a 1.5" diameter hose clamp fitted with a thumb screw to help secure the rubber tubing over the end of the faucet.


- The other useful gadget is something that will hold the end of your hose in the water fill opening. There are commercially available items or you can make your own. The problem with the commercial version is that there are holes in the cap around the hose connection which allow back-pressure from the water being forced down the curved fill tube to expel some of the water. Since there is already an air-vent tube beside the water tube that allows air to escape as the tank fills, a solid fill device is better.


-- You can easily make a fill device yourself: buy a regular fill tube with the hose connection and also purchase a replacement cap for the fill inlet. Drill a hole in the center of the fill cap through which the fill tube just fits. Cement the two together. Now you can securely attach your hose to the fill opening. The sound of gurgling or burping will indicate that the tank is just about full.


-- My wife wasn't keen on me making one of copper and soldering it even though I told her the solder was lead free and we have copper pipes in our home. She wanted me to make it from PVC instead even though she knows I no longer like plastic parts since moving to Fl. She used the logic that we use it for outdoor irrigation and it lasted and has UV inhibitors and it wouldn't even be in the sun that much. I think she just doesn't like when I use a torch because it gets her nervous. So to make her happy I bought the 3 pieces I needed to make one from 1/2" PVC tubing that I already had left over for spare tubing from an irrigation system project. I needed the 45° elbow ($.21), a 1/2" PVC to 1/2" FPT adapter ($.29), and the 1/2" MPT to 3/4" brass hose adapter ($2.26). It all cost less than $3. I already had the tubing, PVC cement, and primer. If they had the PVC 1/2" slip to 3/4" FHT hose adapters in stock those were only $1.05 so it would have been even cheaper but they were out of stock and I didn't want to go back just for that. I'd also rather have the brass type hose adapter and really would have rather made the whole thing from copper tubing but this was a compromise. It works great and no more need for a hanger to keep that lousy cheap plastic and vinyl tubing filler from falling out of the potable tank filler. Even if I had to buy the 1/2 tubing and the cement and primer it would've been only about a $6-8 project and a much better way to fill the tank. A piece of 8'x 1/2" tubing costs only about $1-1.50 and a small container of cement is about $1.50, you don't really need to use primer except in pressurized systems but it's cheap also. Making one of PVC is easy even for those that can't solder. Home Depot or any other store will cut the tubing for you free so you don't even need a pipe cutter for it.


- Terry Tanner has made a very effective fill tube from copper tubing and fittings. A thorough description with photos and plans are available on Terry's Techsnoz site.


Trouble-Shooting
When filling the tank, water backs up and comes out the inlet
- The vent outlet, located inside the water fill access door, has a stainless steel screen covering it. It is secured with a rubber washer. Remove the rubber washer and pop the screen out. It may be completely blocked with crud. Scrub it clean with a little detergent and an old toothbrush. Problem solved.


Contributors: Bob, Mike, Larry Wade, WxToad 

Revised: 12 Oct 13
 
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