Swapping the factory Parallax converter for a PD4655 converter

This applies to all PD models

Replacing the DC fuse board may be difficult due to the shortness of the 6-gauge wires from the coach batteries. The Parallax DC board is sufficient for powering the DC circuits in the coach. so replacement is not required. If the wire lengths permit installing the new DC board it will give you two more circuits plus the function of a blinking light showing which fuse is blown. 

The “Charge Wizard” feature in the new PD system is not necessary to properly operate the new converter. However, it is useful for setting the charge rate to float for long-term storage.

The AC black, white & green wires from the PD 4655 converter go to the  AC breakers above. Just reinstall those wires where the Parallax AC wires were removed. The black (+) & white (-) DC wires from the left side of the converter board feed to the DC fuse panel in the locations where the Parallax DC cables were removed. Label the wires if you think you might get confused.

A close-up of the AC side connections and breakers. 

The black AC wire goes up to the AC converter breaker and the white wire to the lower buss bar & green wire go to the buss bar to the left (ground).

  

The black DC (+) wire attaches at the +UCC screw down terminal and the white attaches at NEG screw down terminal as shown below. If you are careful making these two wire attachments I don’t think you need to turn off the DC from the batteries. If you want, trip the in-line resettable fuse and remove the fuse from the solar panel. The orange wire with the fuse to the +UCC terminal is the feed from the solar panel. Once these two DC wires are attached, replace the covers and you are finished!

Ensure all wires are securely tightened. Even the DC wires that you did not remove if you did not replace the DC board. It's good practice to check tightness every year.

Mike Coachman 8/22

RV Power for Dummies

If you know much of anything about electricity, this article is not for you. You already know all this!

For the beginner, this will seem like a lot of info, but I've tried to keep it simple. Just read it over a couple of times and hopefully it will help you to begin to understand the electrical power in your RV.


Before I go any further, one note . . . If you are ordering a new Lazy Daze, I think one of the most important options you can pay for is to get as many 12-volt (Direct Current or DC) and 110 volts (Alternating Current or AC) outlets as they will give you. It's been my experience that they're never where you want them, so I like having them everywhere! We got all they would allow, and still had to put more in!


110 volt power is what you have in a regular house. It comes from the power poles that feed your home. You access it via through those familiar 3-prong plugs.


12 volts is what is supplied to your RV from your battery bank. In your RV, if you're sitting out in the middle of nowhere, you're running off of 12-volt power supplied by your batteries. Think of the plugs that go into a cigarette lighter. That is a 12-volt outlet.


The 12-volt plugs cab dash are powered by the cab battery located under the hood. The house batteries, which power the lights, etc. in the living quarters of the motor home are located somewhere in the body of the motor home.


One short note about house batteries. They come in two types, flooded cell and sealed (AGM or gel cell). If you have flooded cell batteries you must maintain them by checking that they have enough distilled water in them. If your batteries don't have enough water, they will die a premature death. There are many ways to water your batteries but that's another subject. Just remember that this is a crucial step in preserving your power. KEEP YOUR BATTERIES WATERED!!!
Tech Note: A Profill system is commonly used to keep the batteries topped off.


If you have replaced your flooded cell batteries with AGMs or gel cell, they are sealed and never need water. There are many advantages to sealed batteries, but they are considerably more expensive than flooded cells. Since most RVs come with flooded cell batteries, that's what I'm going to talk about here. [In 2010, AGM batteries became standard in Lazy Daze]


So here you are, out in the desert, relying on your batteries for power. You can only use lights and appliances that are 12 volt; nothing that uses a 3 prong plug (ac) will work.


If you want to use regular 110 volt items (DVD players, some TVs, charge your computer, etc.) you need an inverter.


An inverter takes 12-volt power from your batteries and changes it into 110 volts. Inverters come in several models, portable and hard wired. A small portable inverter plugs into a 12-volt outlet and contains regular 3-prong house plugs.


Different inverters can handle different amounts of power, so before you buy one, you need to do a bit of research. We opted for a hard wired full house inverter, so with the flick of a switch, all the 110 volt outlets in Cholula Red are "live". When we don't need this feature, we simply turn it off. Tech Note: A 400 watt inverter is more than adequate for charging computers, phones, a DVD and other low power requirement devices. If you want to power something like a hair dryer, you will need a 2000 watt hard wired inverter. The price difference between a portable 400 watt and hard wired 2000 watt inverter approaches $2,000. Also the 12-volt outlets will supply, at best, 10 amps, less the more removed they are from the batteries. Short story, anything that needs more than about 5 amps will need a hard wired inverter connected directly to the batteries.


Charging the Batteries


Depending on how much power you consume dictates when you will need to charge your batteries. This can be done in one of four ways.


First, anytime you are plugged into shore power, the batteries are being charged by the converter/charger unit.


Second is the option of solar power. Solar is a great boon to RVers and we love having it on Cholula Red. We have four panels, giving us lots of power for the batteries, assuming we have the sun to power them. That said, solar is somewhat expensive, and not for everyone. While we often have hook ups, we have found that solar gives us the opportunity to camp at places with no power for extended periods of time. I look at solar as an addition that opens up options. It does a great job of charging the batteries, but since it's an option rather than a standard item, I'm only mentioning it here for informational purposes. Tech Note: The power from the solar controller is fed directly to the batteries, bypassing the converter/charger.


Third, you can run your cab engine. This will charge your batteries via the engines alternator, and it's fairly efficient. HOWEVER, it's noisy, it pollutes and it uses a good amount of gasoline, so it's really not the best option. Tech Note: The batteries are charged by the alternator controlled by the engine's voltage regulator. Not ideal as the chassis and house batteries are probably at different charge levels.


Fourth, if you have a generator, you can charge your batteries with it. It also uses gasoline, but not as much as running the engine (.6 gallons per hour under a low load), But, there's a catch to charging the batteries via the generator. In order for your generator to charge your batteries, it has to use a device called a charger. And chargers come in various models.
Most RVs come with a single-stage charger as part of the built in converter. It takes the power made by the generator and it stores it the batteries. But here's where it gets tricky. Your batteries are sensitive, and they can only go to 100% charged. If you continue to charge them, they will start to “boil”. [The water appears to boil, but it’s actually hydrogen bubbles you see.] When they “boil”, your batteries will lose water.


And remember, YOU WANT TO KEEP YOU BATTERIES WATERED!!!


Tech Note: The charging ability of factory supplied converters varies. If you have the original converter, the charging will be very slow in all coaches manufactured before November 2001; that's when LD started installing the more modern 7345 converter. The earlier model 6345 converters charge at an incredibly slow rate so don't attempt to charge your batteries by running the generator.


So here's where you might want to consider a smart multi-stage charger. Not only does it charge your batteries, but it communicates with them. It knows when the batteries are low and need a lot of charge and it pumps the power in at a fast rate. When it reads that your batteries are getting close to full, it backs off to a lower rate of charge. And when it reads that your batteries are near to completely full, it goes in to a trickle charge mode. Three stage "smart" chargers are a real boon to RVers and I think a necessary upgrade for many users.


Now I want to talk a bit more about the power in your batteries. Now that you understand that the power comes from your batteries to your appliances, the question comes up, how do you know just how much power is left in your batteries?

The answer is simple. You need a battery monitor.


IF YOU DRY CAMP, YOU NEED A BATTERY MONITOR!


Short story here …When we first got Cholula Red, I was truly clueless about RV power. I understood that I didn't understand, and I wanted to learn. But when people would try to explain to me about power, they would start talking amps, volts and watts, and honestly, my eyes would just glaze over.


But, I did know that I was using a lot of power and I wanted to know where I stood. After all, we were running lights, watching television, playing DVDs, charging phones, computers, you get the idea. I wanted to know when my batteries were getting low, and I was completely clueless about how to find that out. Several people had told me that I could get this information from my solar controller (the device that monitors/controls the power from your solar panels to your battery). The catch was this - it would only give an accurate reading when there was no power going into or coming out of the batteries. And when would that be? Yep, I would find myself getting up in the middle of the night, turning on my flashlight and sneaking up to the display, trying to figure out how much power was left in the batteries. [Tech Note: Equating a voltage reading to the amount the batteries are discharged is up to 25% off.]


Now, with the push of a button the monitor tells me that I have exactly 83% left in my batteries (or whatever the percentage is at any given time). For me, managing the power in the RV became pretty simple after I got the battery monitor. If you don't want to have to learn all the math, it's the easiest way to manage your power.


Tech Note: Battery manufacturers warn that discharging below 50% will shorten the life cycle of the battery. Most users consider 65% the low threshold.]


by Kate Klein

Wiring size

LD has used different gauge wire, between the converter and battery, through the years so, when upgrading the converter, confirming the actual size used is necessary.

To determine the wire size needed, measure the distance of the wire run, from the converter to the battery. Use a wiring chart showing the amperage capacity for various gauge wires and run lengths. West Marine Wiring Size

In the above chart, use the 3% voltage drop and make sure to double the run length to allow for the positive and negative wires. The correct size wire, or larger, will prevent excessive voltage drop and provide the highest possible charge rates.

There is no rule of thumb that a 45-amp converter should use 6-gauge wire. Using West Marine's chart, a 45-amp charger, with a run of 12' or more, should be upgraded to 4-gauge. Every floor plan has a different wire run length.

The wire size is a function of amperage and wire length. If the wires are bundled with other wires, the wire amperage capacity is degraded, and may need upgrading to prevent overheating.

What's the Difference - Converters/Inverters

Manufacturers install 12 volt only components, such as lights, and use converters and inverters to power them. If you are connected to shore power or using your generator, the converter is supplying 12 volts to your lights. Otherwise, your inverter is supplying 12 volts to your lights from your house batteries.

Your converter is really a simple device that takes 110 volt AC and turns it into 12 volt DC. They allow you to use your 12 volt appliances, fans, pumps and camper lights while you are plugged in to 110.

Most RV power converters are equipped with a battery charger to keep the RV's battery charged when connected to a 110 power source. These chargers are usually trickle chargers with a charge rate of less than 10 amps.

Inverters work the exact opposite. They change the DC power of the house batteries to AC current. Some RVs have inverters to provide AC power at times when shoreline power is not available, or when generator use is not advised. Inverters are rated in watts, from 35 to 3000 watts.

RV Power inverters are nice to have for dry camping. Generators require fuel, regular maintenance and can be very noisy. We usually dry camp to avoid noise. Inverters are quiet - not even a hum, and are virtually maintenance free!

A power inverter relies on good RV deep cycle batteries to work properly. They work well for low power appliances such as televisions, radios, computers, and for short term use of appliances such as coffee makers or microwaves.

What's the Difference - Converters/Inverters

Manufacturers install 12 volt only components, such as lights, and use converters and inverters to power them. If you are connected to shore power or using your generator, the converter is supplying 12 volts to your lights. Otherwise, your inverter is supplying 12 volts to your lights from your house batteries.

Your converter is really a simple device that takes 110 volt AC and turns it into 12 volt DC. They allow you to use your 12 volt appliances, fans, pumps and camper lights while you are plugged in to 110.

Most RV power converters are equipped with a battery charger to keep the RV's battery charged when connected to a 110 power source. These chargers are usually trickle chargers with a charge rate of less than 10 amps.

Inverters work the exact opposite. They change the DC power of the house batteries to AC current. Some RVs have inverters to provide AC power at times when shoreline power is not available, or when generator use is not advised. Inverters are rated in watts, from 35 to 3000 watts.

RV Power inverters are nice to have for dry camping. Generators require fuel, regular maintenance and can be very noisy. We usually dry camp to avoid noise. Inverters are quiet - not even a hum, and are virtually maintenance free!

A power inverter relies on good RV deep cycle batteries to work properly. They work well for low power appliances such as televisions, radios, computers, and for short term use of appliances such as coffee makers or microwaves.

12-Volt Electrical System

General
The electrical system in your Lazy Daze is a little more complicated than that of your home. Basically there are two major systems in your LD: a 110-volt AC system that is similar to your house and a 12-volt system that provides power when you are not plugged into the electrical grid, either at home or in a campground. The 12-volt system allows you to boondock without utility hookups and enjoy most of the conveniences of home. Check out the 110-volt AC System FAQ for more details on that.

The 12-volt system, as built by the factory, is powered from two different sources. The heart of the system is two Trojan T-105 6-volt batteries wired in series to provide 12 volts of power when not connected to shore power. Trojans are known for their durability and longevity, provided they are properly maintained. When connected to shore power or the generator, the 12-volt system is powered through the converter that is standard on all Lazy Daze motorhomes. On the front of the converter is a 12-volt panel with a number of fuse positions for the various 12-volt circuits in the coach.

As noted in the Battery Maintenance FAQ, it is important to keep your batteries as charged up (full of power) as possible, especially when boondocking. The batteries can be charged in four ways: running the generator, plugging into shore power, running the LD's engine, or optionally with solar panels.
When boondocking, it also pays to be aware of the current draw of lights and appliances, so you can make the available power in the batteries last as long as possible. Some folks have replaced the incandescent and fluorescent bulbs in the fixtures with LED bulbs that draw significantly less power. Many folks install a battery monitoring system, such as the Link-10, LinkPro, XBM or TriMetric that keeps track of battery use. Its computer keeps a running total of every milliamp that goes into or comes out of your battery bank. If you're a frequent boondocker, you might consider adding more batteries for storage of power and more solar panels to feed them.

There should be a matching of battery capacity to power needs.  In general, it is considered bad form to repeatedly draw down the batteries too far.  How much is too far?  Some say 50%.  Some say more, and some say less.  It seems clear that the less you draw down your batteries, the longer they will last.

Trouble-shooting
12-volt appliances or lights fail to operate:
The obvious place to start is to check the fuse. The 12-volt panel uses standard automotive flat-blade fuses of varying amperage, depending on the circuit. You should keep a supply of spare fuses handy.

Caution: If a fuse keeps blowing, do NOT replace with a higher-amperage fuse - find the source of the problem and repair it. Otherwise you may face a hazardous fire situation.

The entire coach 12-volt system is inoperative:
There is a 12 Volt 100 Amp manual reset circuit breaker located typically on the back wall of the battery compartment. There is also a 12 Volt 50 Amp manual reset circuit breaker located inside the coach very close to the enclosed battery "box". The location varies with the floor plan. On the RB, it is under the forward dinette cushion and u have to remove the screws from the plywood cover over the battery box to get to it. Some rigs may even have two of these. The "inside" breaker is a small gray plastic box about 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches by about 3/4 inches with a tiny black reset button. If you lose ALL 12 Volt power, this is the one to look for. On one new rig, a "run-away" ShurFlo 5.7 water pump caused this breaker to trip (50 Amps!!!!!!).
Contributors: Terry Tanner, WxToad
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Converter/Charger

The standard converter that Lazy Daze uses is the Parallax (formerly Magnetek) 7345 model, which like many switching DC converters on the market, is not a good battery charger since it will only deliver a maximum voltage of 13.8 VDC. Due to the constant voltage of 13.8, it also means it's not a great converter to leave plugged in for extended periods (weeks on end) as it will boil the electrolyte of your batteries causing you to check/fill the reservoirs more often. Never-the-less, this converter works fine for people that don't go camping off-grid on a regular basis or don't leave their RV plugged in 24/7 for long periods of time.

If you find yourself having to add water to your house batteries fairly often, you might want to consider upgrading your converter/charger to a 3-stage charger model, which will be much more gentle on your batteries. There are many to choose from and most are a drop-in replacement for the stock 7345.

The most popular brands of replacement units are the Progressive Dynamics (PD) Intelipower units. PD makes a number of models with various amperage output, ranging from the stock 45 amp replacement units on up to 70 amps. If you decide to go with a higher output unit, be sure to upgrade the in-line fuse to accommodate the higher power. PD units include what is called the Charge Wizard, which constantly monitors the state of the batteries and adjusts the charge as needed. It delivers 13.6 VDC normal mode, 13.2 VDC standby, and has an equalization cycle that provides 14.4 volts for 15 minutes every 21 hours while in standby mode. Since it's a true 3-stage charger, it will charge much more quickly due to the higher voltage capability and you can expect to fully charge a single, size 24, 85 AH battery in just 4 to 6 hours vs. 16 to 36 hours with the 7345.

The larger Progressive Dynamic's PD9270, rated at 70-amps, has been used successfully by several LD'ers to replace 6300/7400 series converters. It includes the Charge Wizard 4-stage charger control and is the largest converter that will fit into the same place as the original converter. You can download the PDI 9200 Series Owner's Manual. You should consider replacing the wiring between the converter and the batteries with heavier gauge wire to handle the increased current.

Other brands include Iota and WFCO who also make drop-in replacements.

The actual replacement is reasonably easy. There are two major steps - replacing the lower converter/charger unit and replacing the 12-Volt fuse panel (the 12-volt panel is included, but it is not necessary to replace; it does offer two more fused circuit positions, however). If you do it wire-by-wire it's hard to go wrong, although in true Lazy Daze fashion, the wire lengths are minimal and it's a bit of a struggle to get the wire end to the new terminal.

The replacement 12-volt panel has red LED's below each fuse to show which fuse has blown. but only if there is a circuit connected with a path to ground. A mis-wire might prevent the light from coming on, or if there is another fuse also open in that circuit.

While you're at it, you might want to consider installing a "whole-house" surge protector. While you have the converter compartment open, it's easy to wire in the surge protector so that it protects both shore power and generator power.

See also Converter Wire Size

Contributors: WxToad

Revised 30 Apr 2011

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