Fogging windows is something every LD owner can look forward to if they keep their rig long enough.

Few shops specialize in repairing or replacing fogged glass.
I know no one who has a successful repair that has lasted or didn't suffer damage to the paint around the window. This doesn't mean that a satisfactory repair can't be made, I know of no positive examples.
If any member has had a good experience, lets us know. We also have fogged windows that need repair.

The windows can be removed without damage if care is taken to mask around the perimeter of the window frames with multiple layers of masking or duct tape. It takes time to get one free without damage.

Your choices are to use a shop that does the entire job or remove the window yourself and send it to a shop.
The glass can be defogged or a replacement insulated glass panel fabricated.
https://www.coachspecialists.com/blog/rv-window-repair-options-for-fogged-or-frosted-rv-windows/https://rvglassrepairservices.com
RV Glass & Windshield Repair, RV Glass Replacement | Lazydays
RV Glass Replacement & Repair | Olympia | D.K. Boos Glass
Expert Nationwide RV Windshield and Window Replacement | RV Glass Solutions

Lazy Daze can replace the complete window, it's an expensive alternative.

Here's kit to clean the glass in place.  I have no idea how well it works.
(DIY) Foggy Window Repair Kits, Fix Broken Glass Seal, United States & Canada

Larry

Fogged Windows Repair at RV Glass Solutions

Review of the Phoenix location of RV Glass Solutions. Their main location is in Coburg, OR. 

We are having those three windows repaired. They also offer replacement with either insulated glass or laminated glass. We looked at a sample of the laminated glass and don't think it is as dark as the glass used by LD. They claim that the laminated glass would add about 5 pounds of weight per glass piece. However, only the Coburg location cuts new glass.

Cost to repair is $325 per window. The work is guaranteed for 2 years.

The facility looks good and they have a secure lot with three 50 amp hookups. We arrived last night.

They have just removed the first window in the living room and it was not installed with butyl tape but used double adhesive foam tape and then a bead of caulk around the outside edge. Based on my contact with various repair shops double sticky foam tape appears to be the standard. You can see an installation here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MuVSRpjGCA

No sign of water intrusion on the first one, at least.

It took all day to finish the job with two working on it. They used a black polyurethane sealant/adhesive completely around the circumference after installation. The windows look great and as an added bonus they are incredibly easy to open and close now. I can only assume that was from a cleaning of the interior of the frame.

Total cost was $975 so no additional charges for materials.

Now only time will tell how long the re-sealing will hold up.

Four months later we have been through plenty of rain with no sign of leaks. There was no damage to frames and we were happy with our experience.

Jim Cummings - 2016

Fogged Windows

[Note to Lazy Daze Owners Forum. Where to get windows defogged has come up more than once. I don’t recall anyone responding where they had their windows done. Perhaps none of them read or post to this forum? If there are positive or negative reviews, may I suggest this would be a good time to post them]

This a negative review on Suncoast Designs 

February, 2017 - We went to Hudson, FL to have Suncoast Designs clean five fogged windows in our Lazy Daze MH.  Before we made an appointment we asked if they had worked on a Lazy Daze before. We were assured they had and it would be no problem. When we arrived they said they had done six Lazy Daze in the last few months.

First, the good thing - the windows are clean and clear. Except for one, which already has condensation in it.

When we checked in, the short conversation was very terse. No nice to meet you. We had to pull the information out of her. Where should we park? Where is the dump? What is the WiFi password? etc.

The first thing the next morning, two young, trim, agile men came to remove the valances and shades. Mission accomplished they left. Two others were outside cutting the caulk on the windows with razor blades. This went on for about 90 minutes. The windows barely budged. The original team returned to find out what was taking so long. They said they it usually took 5 to 10 minutes to remove a window. The original pair, led by Austin, went into a frenzied physical mode using pry bars to remove the windows. At this point I did not know they were bending the window frames in the process. I would not know this until the windows were put back in and bulges in the frames showed where the pry bar was used.

After a window was removed, I could see why removal was difficult. The manufacturer put a bead of Locite sealant on the aluminum skin which bonded with the aluminum frame. Another rubber like sealant was used to prevent water from even getting to the Loctite. A belt and suspenders deal. One could argue it’s overkill. I am not so sure.

Before a pry bar was used, we should have appraised that they were experiencing difficulties they had never encountered before. And we should have been offered some choices. Such as:
1) Abandon the project.
2) Advise us the window frames would be bent if they continued.
3) That an additional charge would have to be made because of the extra time needed to remove the windows without bending them.

But they said nothing and we did not know the frames were being bent.

They sealed the window openings with plastic lined cardboard held on with painters tape. Remember the painters tape, this will come into play the next day.

The next day, they had us bring the rig inside to put the windows back in, as it was raining.
That’s when we heard a rubber mallet pounding the bent frames almost back into shape. They applied a bead caulk ONLY to the exterior. No caulk was put under the lip of the window between the frame and the aluminum skin. That means the caulk will have to be redone every 1/2 years due to deterioration from UV light.

This is when I find two places where the paint was lifted off where the painters tape that held the plastic lined cardboard on overnight. One of the men told us that they had told the manager/owner about this problem with the tape before. [Since the majority of rigs are fiberglass, this would not be problem]

Scapes from the pry bar

Paint lifted by the tape used

 Paint lifted by the tape used. You can see the only seal is between the window and paint

Close up of the previous picture

Another scratch from the pry bar

The day ends at 5. They did not do a water test because it was raining. Overnight it rained. One window, over a couch, was not sealed at the top. They sealed it.

We were asked to sign a checklist that said the work had been done. I noted the GM had already signed it, even though he had not looked at our rig. In fact, we did not see him out of the building the time we were there.

Now the second experience - not at all pleasant!  We go inside to pay and asked to speak to the manager. The customer rep, Taylor, says the General Manager has already seen the pictures where the paint was removed and they will take no responsibility for it. We think we should get some credit to have it repainted.  She is determined that will not happen, but finally admits she is authorized to give us $100 off.  After some arguing and then demanding to speak to manager/owner. He comes out of his office, walks down the hall past us and places himself behind the counter and proceeds to tell us off. He never introduced himself, but we found out he is the deceased owner’s son. 

The GM is arrogant. Nothing is their fault. It’s all Lazy Daze fault because they use cheap paint and are built on the cheap. Anyone that knows Lazy Daze, knows cheap is not a word that can describe any part of them. They have held a five-star rating for decades. The paint is a two part epoxy that lasts for over 20 years without fading. And get this, not only did the painters tape remove the cheap Lazy Daze paint, it also removed paint from the Hehr windows. Guess they use cheap paint also. 

Finally, he agrees to give us $150 off. Less than it will cost to have the paint touched up.

Suncoast states that we signed a document during check-in advising us that paint removal might occur. That is prima facie evidence that they knew of the problem, but silently concealed it. Talk about Buyer Beware. No one would knowingly sign something that said they were giving Suncoast the right to damage their RV.

Our Lazy Daze is nine years old and has zero factory defects. The paint is perfect, not a single bubble.

I was always taught that the customer is always right, whether they are or not!  Small businesses operate on the goodwill of customers.  This guy was a total jerk and we would strongly recommend not using them, especially if you own a Lazy Daze or any other rig that is painted.

BTW, I met two other owners in for service who were there as come-backs. Suncoast Designs claims the best warranty in the business, but what good is a warranty when you are thousands of miles away and the window is leaking. In fact, it is not much good if you park your rig next door to Suncoast Designs and do not check for water leaks after every rain.

In fairness to Suncoast, not many RV’s are built to the quality standard of Lazy Daze. Other windows can be removed in five minutes because they are barely sealed at the factory. They leave Suncoast the same way. Most RVs have fiberglass skins, so paint removal is not an issue. 

We are still finding screws that were not put back in. Even though I loaned them a hex head tool to put them back in. We found one window screw hole that was stripped out.

In summary:
The window frames were bent and show the bumps.
Paint was lifted off the exterior and the window frames.
One window was not sealed and is showing internal condensation.
One window was not externally sealed and rain soaked the bed.
At least a dozen screws were not replaced.
Nothing is the fault of Suncoast.

Windows

One of the big attractions of a Lazy Daze coach is the number and size of windows. In addition, they have always been deeply tinted so that although occupants can see out, folks outside can't see inside in daylight. Prior to 2003 models, the windows were of a double-pane construction with a tinted film between them, but there was no insulating air space between the panes. Beginning in 2003, LD started using a true insulated window, with improved insulating qualities. These windows greatly reduce wintertime condensation.
The windows are manufactured by Hehr:
* Sold only to manufacturers as whole window assemblies.
* They no longer replace glass at their plant. Instead, replacement material is provided to a few retail shops (e.g., Nagcoglass in Pomona, CA)
Nagco Glass of Pomona
243 E. Holt Ave
Pomona, CA 91767
Email: nagcoglass@verizon.net
Phone: (909) 623-3343

* It is laminated and is 3/16-inch thick. (most laminated material is 1/4-inch thick.)
* It is darker than most 3/16 "lammie" available.
* Dark grey glass is normally 1/4-inch thick. Jamming 1/4-inch, "light" grey glass into the Lazy Daze window frames will break it.

* Get your local glass installer to deal directly with Nagcoglass. Have your installer get the glass shipped UPS ($90 vs $250, and it's less likely to be broken.

* Let the installers measure the glass (and order it at least 2-inches larger in each dimension than will be needed).

* According to one installer, RV and 18-wheeler tractor glass is very difficult to source.

Cleaning Stained Windows

- "Invisible Glass" by Stoner. Be forwarned... you cannot expect a perfect job from the first application. You must cut through all the accumulated crud to get down to the glass. At least 3 applications, minimum. But, once you get all the other stuff removed you will be surprise at the result. Make sure you follow the directions. You can find it at Wal-Mart.

- Bar Keepers Friend

- Be real careful with scrubby things - it's easy to scratch the glass.

- H.D. Acid, Aluminum and chrome brightener. It's a liquid sold in a gallon container for @ $15.00. Wash you windows with this stuff and they look like new! You can find it at:
www.autodetailsuppliesoutlet.com

- Kimball Midwest sells a glass cleaner called Extreme Glass Cleaner. It works well on the minerals found in our well water.

- You can also use CLR, being careful of surround materials. Just a bit on a paper towel to control application. Follow up with regular glass cleaner.

Keeping bugs out of the weep holes

- Make some little filter screens by using an old pair of scissors and cutting strips from a Scotchbrite pad (or similar). This will keep the little buggers out, but you'll have to remember to clean the filters now and then to prevent the weep holes from backing up. Use a dental pick to remove the "filters" after use (ask your dentist, they will usually give used ones to you for the asking - those that they have ground down beyond what they can use.

Removing/Re-installing screens
The screens have "spring" clips designed to compress against the top window track and push the screen's lower edge down into the lower track.
To remove a screen, grip the screen at the lower corners and press straight up against the clips until the lower edge clears the track lip. Then pull the bottom edge of the screen toward you just a bit and it will come out easily.
To re-install, insert the clips into the upper window track, press upward, swing the screen's bottom edge back in over the lower track and release. 

Resealing/Replacing a window

See the Resealing/Replacing a Window FAQ

Dual-pane Window is Foggy
- Occasionally the seal between the two layers of glass will fail, allowing moisture to infiltrate the air-space and cause fogging of the window. Repair of this malady is not a DIY project - here's an article that describes the process.

The window rattles
- From Steve Newton regarding windows: Either they are easy to slide but can rattle or do not rattle but are difficult to open and close. The solution is simple. We basically use a 1" x 2" x 6" block of wood and tap the flat aluminum flange around the exterior portion of the sliding window side. You place the small end of the block against the aluminum frame and tap it with a hammer as you move it around the frame. This moves the frame closer to the felt which in turn eliminates any free play. Apparently, the felt has collapsed just enough to create the rattle. It does not take much to bend the frame. If you get carried away, the window will become difficult to open. We test drive each unit and tap down any windows that may have the rattle, however, again the felt may collapse just enough down the road to allow the rattle to return.

- Pedaleasy1949 suggests: I fixed the problem by going to Home Depot and purchasing a thumb screw window lock [for about $2.00] that slides into the bottom window channel. The lock was too large and parts had to be filed off with a dremel tool. However, after modification, the lock fits snugly into the channel and with the sliding window closed, holds the left bottom corner of the sliding window [viewed from the inside of the rig] firmly in place and has eliminated the rattle. When you get to your destination, simply unscrew the lock, put in a drawer, and open your window. I believe this is a far more sensible fix than trying to bend the aluminum channel to narrow its dimensions, as such bending may make it more difficult to slide the window. 

- Place a small strip of the fuzzy part of Velcro material just on the inside of the outside rail that holds the window. Put a piece on the top and bottom close to the center of the window frame. The pieces were about 1/4" x 2". You have to be careful that it is placed just below the area where the window's outside fuzzy part is so that the new material just will touch the metal part of the window frame. Additional velco can be added to the vertical portion of the aft frame.

The window is hard to open/close
The LD manual says to clean out the tracks and then lubricate with WD 40 or petroleum jelly. Most folks agree that makes things rather messy - it "goos" up and attracts dirt. Thoroughly cleaning the tracks and liberal application of silicone spray has worked some for us. I would definitely avoid the products you say the manual recommends - they will accelerate the chemical deterioration of those guides. Spray everything lightly and then wipe with a clean rag to pick up any dirt. Repeat until the rag comes up clean. Get the can of spray that comes with a small plastic nozzle that looks like a straw - not as messy as a can without a "straw". Another way to apply the silicon is to spray it on a rag then wipe the track with the rag.

The latch doesn't stay locked
- Our aluminum window latches have never tended to release unintentionally - plastic ones might have more of a problem. Close the window FIRMLY before engaging the latch. The constant pressure of the window on the latch helps. I find I have to push the widow firmly closed again then to release the latch. Steve

- Depending upon the window's location, the latch may appear to be upside down - you'd think the latches should be installed so that one pushes them down to lock, not up. You may be able to switch latches from one side of the rig to the other to reverse the latch.

- Visit a hardware store, Lowe's or HD and look for a screw clamp that finger tightens on the lip of the window channel. They often sold as part of security system, but should be available separately. It's just a simple "U" shaped piece of aluminum with a tapped in screw that tightens to the lip--easy to put on and remove.

Broken latch
- The latches on 2003 and newer LD's require the single lever latch which rotates 180°. For those of you who need exact replacements the correct part number is Hehr Pt. #110-241.
The supplier is Interstate Metals, Phone 1-800-587-3463. A call to that 800 number informed me that the Hehr Pt. #110-241 would cost $6.50 each, with the option of black or red. The only difference is the inclusion of a heavier spring. They are interchangeable right to left side, the screw holes have the same c/c distance and outside of a stiffer operation they are the same as the old ones. It takes all of five minutes to mount the new one in place of the broken one. Steve S.

Water collects in window track
- Check that the outside "seal" is all the way down against the pane. After pushing this down (let the water evaporate first), you can test by spraying with a hose.
- The first thing to check is the weep hole under the small pane area; these narrow slots on the outside of the window frame can become blocked with crud. A narrow popsicle stick or wooden coffee "stirrer" (the kind one gets at a coffee place) work well to ream out the weep holes.
- We had a similar problem with our 2005MB and several trips back to the factory did not help as it would not leak unless it was raining very hard. What did help was recaulking around the top of the window that was leaking and putting guttering up over the back window.
- Use Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure (google it). I used this product on just such a problem and it worked. Buy it at marine stores or Camping World. A small amount goes a long ways, has a long shelf life and is extremely easy to use.
- The rubber stripping in one corner of the rear window in my 23.5 was leaking; water entered from the poorly-fitting stripping, then "bubbled" and oozed over the seal on the inside of the window. Per suggestions, I first looked at using Dynaflex caulk, but didn't want to buy a tube which required a caulk gun for a few little "doots" of sealant. I found a product which seems to have done the job: GE Silicone II Gasket and Seal. The sealant is black, comes in a 2.8 ounce tube (with a cap to prevent hardening of the product in the nozzle), is listed for auto and "recreational vehicle" use, is easy to apply, cleans up with a shop towel, dries pretty quickly, and cures in about a day. No more window leaks.
- Using 3M Window-Weld Urethane:-- Clean the area with water and then alcohol. Use blue tape to mask off the window frame leaving only a sliver showing all the way around. Do the same with the pane. This way the sealer adheres to the frame, rubber seal, and window pane neatly.
-- After applying the sealer work it with your finger using latex gloves. Finishing off by doing a final swipe to remove excess. This made for a clean and almost factory look.
--This stuff dries super fast.
-- I realized after the fact that I need a little more sealer in a couple of spots. I'll have to pay more attention next time. In the meantime I'll just re-mask and re-apply.
- The general consensus is to NEVER use silicone caulking on your LD. It doesn't stick well and yet is miserable to remove.

Screen rattles
- Go to your local friendly picture framer (one who uses metal frames on watercolors) and ask to see some, "Spring Clips". These are 1/4 inch wide and about two to three inches long pieces of metal in a shallow curved "W" shape about 5/16" or so high. They are used to hold watercolors, mats, glass and backing in metal frames.

Contributors: Steve Newton, Pedaleasy1949, Steve, John, Jerry, bob phillips, Larry Wade, Dennis, Brian, Joan Taylor, Steve S., Pat, bumper, Dale Collins, Peg, Malcolm, Gini Free, Danny, Tom Johnston, Cats Meow, Andy Baird, George of Arby
Revised 13 Nov 2012