Should A Used Lazy Daze Be Inspected?

Some people have had bad experiences with purchasing vehicles or someone told them about a bad experience they had or they have so little idea of what they buying they are scared. As a seller I avoid these folks, they are going to be a PIA. If I am a buyer, I would be equally reluctant to deal with someone who does not know about their rig.

1) If you don't know much about RVs and the seller does not either, then yes you should have it inspected. You might luck out and trip over a knowledgeable RV tech.

2) If you don't know much about RV's, but the seller knows about their RV, you may offend the seller by insisting on having it inspected. That would be me. You don't trust me, I don't want to do business with you.

3) If you know about RV's do the inspection yourself. It will take 3 or 4 hours to inspect all the RV systems, plus another two to test/inspect the Ford parts such as a/c, brakes, hoses, etc.

Most RV techs are worthless. Techs have little knowledge of RV's. So insisting on an inspection by an unqualified RV tech who the prospective buyer may not even know to tell them if the RV is as described might be insulting. There are three RV dealers in my little town, I would not let one of them touch my rig. So I sure would not seek their opinion on the condition of one.

If you are willing to risk your buying decision on the judgment of one person with known credentials, here may be the best way to locate an inspector. 

I can tell after a few minutes of conversation if a buyer is overly apprehensive or the seller is trying to pull a fast one on me. If so, I avoid them. For instance, if someone asked me if the vehicle used much oil and I said that I had never added a drop. Then later they said they could not believe that it did not use oil considering the age and mileage. Well, they just accused me of lying. That would be the end of business for me.

You may think I am crazy, but truth and trust have always worked for me.

Buying a Used Lazy Daze

If the rig is close to 10 years old, it is time to re-seal the roof. That is a big ticket item if you have it done. You can DIY for less than $100 with Eternabond.

Tires need to be replaced about every five years. That will cost around $1600.

You should get a car fax report and maintenance records.

Check under the over-cab mattress for signs of a leak or dampness. That is an often-overlooked point of leaks and damage.

Does the AC cool? Does the furnace heat? Water heater? Water pump? Does the refer and freezer desired temps? [less than 40 and less than 15]

How are the coach and engine batteries? Do they need replacement?

Check the hours on the generator. There should be one hour for every month since it left the factory. Don't be upset if there is more than that.

Use the LD owners manual as a guide/checklist of inspecting a used LD. Just start with the index and work your way through until everything is covered.

"DON'T buy on impulse". Get a mechanic to check out the drive train and suspension - engine, transmission, bearings, springs, shocks, steering linkages, battery, etc. Get an RV tech to check out the coach and its systems - electric, water, propane, heating, cooling, leaks, structural integrity, window seals, and so on.

The other big issue is "What should I pay for it?" Barry Barnes does an annual analysis of asking prices which offers some guidance on prices of used LD's all the way back to 1963. You can find Barry's analysis on WxToad's site.

Contributors: Delta Mike, Barry Barnes

Revised: 26 Nov 11

Buying an Older Model

Buying a Lazy Daze that is close to two decades old should be done with extreme care. The apparent sweetness of a low purchase price can turn into a money pit.

Be less concerned about the mileage than by the potential of expensive-to-fix "surprises" in a older motorhome. The purchase price is just the start; I suggest having motorhome's engine, chassis, systems, appliances, tires, and all elements of the "box", particularly for evidence of leaks, thoroughly checked out by an experienced and very savvy mechanic and an RV tech before considering such a purchase.

Comments on the Chevy 350 engine: it's generally durable, but not powerful. It'll move the coach if you're not in a hurry (stay around 55 mph), but is too weak, in my humble opinion, to safely tow an auto. Fuel economy averages 8 mpg.

Weak points: the multiple belts are prone to failure (especially the hydro boost pump belt); the exhaust manifold can overheat/burn though; the starter can be "cooked" by high heat in the tightly packed engine compartment. Insulating covers for the starter are available, and probably a good idea.

Leaks and dry rot are possible, even probable, especially in the overcab area. That front overcab window was a chronic source of leaks, which is why they eliminated it in 1990. Most leaks enter at the roof seams, roof appliances, end caps, or window frame seals. Where the water travels after that before settling and causing damage is less obvious, but gravity is the key. Inspect carefully the walls below all windows, especially at floor level. In general, move stuff to see the floor-wall seam everywhere you can, even inside cupboards, around the bunk mattress. For outside compartments above floor level, inspect inside carefully. Check compartments below floor level from underneath. And, from the outside, look carefully at all walls for signs of vertical compression due to wood rot - visible by horizontal ripples in the aluminum skin.

In any case, set aside a couple thousand bucks in addition to the purchase price to pay for the inevitable unexpected costs. For example, a set of new tires will run you over a thousand, and if the tires on the coach are more than five to seven years old--regardless of tread wear--they should be replaced.

Andy Baird's Lazy Daze Pocket Guide (http://www.andybaird.com/travels/LD-guide-web/changes.htm) includes a year-by-year listing of changes that can be very useful when shopping for a used Lazy Daze.

These older coaches do require a lot of care and feeding, so you'd better be handy with tools, or prepared to pay someone who is.

Ford V-10 LDs have been produced for almost 15 years so decent, lower priced models are available. Larry Wade has worked on more LDs than probably any other member of this forum and, in his opinion, spending a lot of money on an G30 is not the smart approach. No matter what you do to a G30 chassis, it will be inferior to the E450. Beside the major improvements in the chassis, there have been dozens of improvements in the coach, including better sealing of the walls and windows. Every G30 Larry has worked on has had window leaks at some time, a problem that is much rarer in the newer models. The elimination of the front window and better sealing materials helped a lot.

The bottom line for those considering purchasing an elderly LD is to have both the coach and chassis fully inspected by qualified mechanics to lower the possibility of buying a piece of junk. A few hundred dollars of upfront inspection costs can save you many thousands of dollar and tons of aggravation in the long run.

See the Lazy Daze Yahoo website's Files - Buying & Selling section for a guide to inspecting used rigs.

Contributors: Joan Taylor, Andy Baird, Larry Wade

Revised 21 Jul 11